Monday, 7 November 1864

A dreadful night! & so unexpected. Whether from the noise of the sea, ― or from the many Mosquitoes, ― or from some unknown physical cause, I cannot tell, ― but truly miserable it was all through.

The sudden ― so sudden transition of body & mond from one world as it were to another, seems by some great rule to call out a reactionary & confusing state of life.


No sleep at all till 3 or 4, but violent attacks of cramp & nervous head miseries. ―

Rose, however, at 7.30 ― determined not to give way: ― & till 10.30 ― walked about: ― to Greek Consul’s ― & to the Post, where I found an enclosure from T. Cooper, with letters from Evelyn Baring, poor W. Nevill, (who had not got mine,) Day (the drawings are erased,) & maclean’s receipt. The letter I wrote to George remains there. Breakfast ― many flies abhorrent disturb me. ― Then went to see lodgings ― all odious with hideously colored furniture ― & nearly all outrageous in price. 2 or 3 small villas were very pretty & delightful ― but with no good roads to the distant city. One of 800 fr. was good for nought; the others 2500 to 3500. An apartment at the top of the Villa Lions ― 6000 was delightful. I returned by the Gare & broad new road, ― but all 3 quarters, St. Etienne, S. Filippe, & Carabacelle are quite new, & comparatively roadless. Went home at 2-2.30 & had some bread & wine, & set out, (having ordered a carriage for Mentone tomorrow,) to walk ― over the hill ― to Villafranca. Many pretty olive views ― & then Villafranca harbour is somewhat like a Spezzia view. ――― Returned by 6. ― & at 6.30 dined ― 8.30 ― write this.

I do not like this Nice, ― μὰ τὶ νὰ κάμω,[1] ― some pied-a-terre must be found to work in. And I incline to the 2000 fr. M. Michel more than any other. The villas ― however surrounded by lovely flowers, are so far from the town: & the rooms are so stuffy & bothery. Grim & dim obscurity abounds; quâ the future.

Day wholly fine.

[1] But what can I do (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]


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Filed under 1864, Diary Entry

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