Tuesday, 8 November 1864

A curious day. ―― Slept well: curtains closed & no mosquitoes.

Rose at 6.30. & at 7.30 had taken coffee; &, as previously resolved ― set off in a 2 ass carriage ― for Mentone.

All the views of Nice as you rise on the Genoa road, are beautiful ― & I think I drew somewhat here in 1841 ― with Uncle & Aunt James. ―Long ascents follow, gulfily looking down into vallies. Bad bits of fallen road ― or rox. First sight of Eza[1] ― beyond Villa Franchi, assuredly very sublime ― & still more so as I went on. Turbia[2] is also grand, & portions of the vast cliffs above the road as one descends are really tremendous. Monaco below, & Roquebrune[3] are also full of beauty, & nearer Mentone, olives worthy of Paxô. But Mentone disappoints me: it is a line of one street ― tho’ the environs are far fuller of near beauty than those of Nice. Hotel Victoria, ― ordered breakfast, & went out to ask if Roberts’s name was among the “strangers.” Lo! I came upon him just outside in the street ― setting off to St. Remo with his friend “Gardner” ― but he goes in 2 days to malta so we met & parted: ― a kindly good man. Returning, I breakfasted, & by chance looked at the list of Strangers; ― & Lo! Viscount & Viscountess Strangford! So I sate an hour or more with them, & afterwards, with her in the table d’hôte room. And at 2.30 ― set off in “my Carriage” ― with the [live] Lord & Lady, who are so full of knowledge & taste that I consider this a white day. ― They left me ― (πάντοτε μόνος)[4] near Rochebrune,[5] & I came on alone. The day all through was divinely lively ― light grey clouds & calm shiel-like sea ― far spread out. Eza was more magnificent than ever. Setting out at 2.45 ― it was moonlight as we came to the Nice descents, & I arrived at 6.30. Έγευμάτισα καλά.[6] ―

But; ― something must be settled as to where I am to work.

Perfectly clear lovely fresh day.


[1] Èze.

[2] La Turbie.

[3] Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.

[4] Always alone (NB).

[5] Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, again.

[6] I dined well (NB).


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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1 Comment

Filed under 1864, Diary Entry

One response to “Tuesday, 8 November 1864

  1. Sara Lodge

    Marco – terribly sorry to hear about the family illness. Please accept my very best wishes for your/their improved health, and for the coming festive season. Your efforts in transcribing the diaries are much appreciated by the Lear community – as one who squints regularly at the originals online, I know how wearing it can be. With kind regards, Sara Lodge

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