Monthly Archives: May 2010

Thursday, 31 May 1860

Up by 6. Breakfast. ― Off ― Expss train by 8. (Mr. Halkett.) Stopped at Reigate, & waited for the 11 o’clock Lewes train, ― which took me there in time for an early dinner with the kind Husey Hunts.

Julia [Lewin] is going to be married to a Mr. Sharp ― formerly curate here ― & heir to much of Baroness Sternberg’s tin. ― I am very glad of this. ―

The H.’s are always the same ― & Bern looks & is much better ― & all the more from the Rifle exercise. ― Afternoon pouring rain. Supper at 8 ― Mr. Sharpe also. ―

Played & talked  till 10. Sleepy. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Wednesday, 30 May 1860

At Paris by 6. ― Nothing opened. To Hotel Louvre. Breakfast ― & dawdling. ― Cloudy wetty day.

At 10 to Station: at 11 off to Boulogne. ―

There by 5.30. Boat. Italian refugees. ― Cornwall Leghs. ― No rain in passage ― & short: but roughish. Start at 7.20. At Folkestone by 8.19. ――

But, being in a crowd, ― it was 10 or more before Customhouse was passed ― very politely & well. Supped at the Pavilion, & was glad to get to bed.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Tuesday, 29 May 1860

Wery high bill, & disgusting landlord. RC I must confess is utterly amiable. Off by rail at 6 ― very fine day. ― Succession of long vallies by river side. At Montemolein (I think) pair of French Regiment got out, Band waiting playing ― “Partant pour la Syrie.” ― &c. &c. On to Chambery at 9-9.30 ― which I did not think any striking or pretty ― anzi. ((Quite the contrary.)) ― Then followed a really pretty lake ― Bourget? ― with Aix les Bains, & much beautiful scenery. By 11.5 arrived at Culõz, & all the Doganeria was passed most agreably & without bother. 11.45 ― at a good quiet restaurateurs, & after that we prowled about, & examined ants’ nests. ― At 4.15 left Culoz in the Macon train, & I was glad to get out once more into the plains: 3 inside besides ourselves. ― At 8 ― or thereabouts, at Macon, where there was no end of excellent supper & lots of time to eat it in.

Off ― ˇ[at 9] & thenceforth sleep or not as case might be, ― moonlight, & very comfortable carriage. ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Monday, 28 May 1860

Clear & bright. Coffee: ― & the carriage packed, started at 5.

Rose at 4.

Walked up the steep ascent. ― Above a village, ˇ[6.30] (Giaúne?) the view over the valley of the Dora, is most exquisite ― a world of walnut foliage softened with light & distance, with snowy summits on each side. But beyond this, the views are dull & uninteresting, this only is one of the widest & loveliest of Alpine views. 7 1er Post (Moralet?) Italy shut out. 7.45 shortcut, cuckoos, calves, cows, & humans all going to Susa fair. 8 French artillery: Capt. ― & dog. 9 RC came up. ― snow. 9.30. Road interesting, landscape ugly: zigzags. 9.40. Top of pass. 9.50. Barriera. 10.30. 2nd post, M. Cenizio. Dreary lake of ice & snow ― fog ― fall of snow, rain, glorious  descent. ― Furs. 12. ˇ[3rd post] Lons le Bourg, lunch. Storm of rain: fuss about luggage. ― 1. Fuss about 3rd horses, & set off ― 1.15 ―― descent by river, ― dull, mononotonous, huge. 3.30 ――― village half way, change horses. Crags & depths. Immense fortress. Walk a little. ― 3.25. 4th post, Modane: valley more beautiful. River fine, descent always. 4.30. Pine valley & river. 5 ― at 5th post ― S. Michel: dirty village ― diligence. ― Great crags & wild torrent valley: ― railway making. ― By 6.15 at the Europa Inn, S. Giovanni Maurienne.  New houses, dined at 7. Other arrivals. Girl of the keys.* Landlord & wine. Bed at 9.

Altogether the M. Cenis pass is not to be compared to the others for beauty or grandeur.

* This girl I accosted as “Madame,” taking her for the Landlady ― but she said ―
O dieu! Monsieurs! je fais la cuisine!
O God Sirs! I am the cook!

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Sunday, 27 May 1860

Perfectly clear & lovely. Rose at 5 ― & at 6, taking coffee on the way, ― up to  the Monti or Cappuccini. It is impossible to imagine the splendour of the Alps ― all their silver close behind the compact magnificence of Turin! I cannot remember any grander or more beautiful city scene. ― There was a pleasant man there who explained the landscape, & who had been in Greece. Cappuccini procession. ― Down to the Dora, & at 7½, breakfast with RC & at 8, in a car up to the Monti again & back by 9. ― Then, in a carriage, we set off to the rail, & took tickets for Susa, starting at 10, arrived at 11.45. ― Very lovely morning & bright, cultivation, mulberry &c. Very picturesque near Susa, but high wind rose, & became frightful. At the Hotel d’Avenue, we got some lunch. Tried to walk, but could not. RC seemed to wish to go on to-day, but it is not really possible. So we agree to go by Post tomorrow, & arrange accordingly. Then we walk about till 4 ― more or less…

It is now 4.30. George may be starting for Naples, having been at C. Vecchia all day. ― This place is gloomy [bare], & the wind distressing.

Slept from 4.30 to 7, then rose & dined ― not very badly I thought. ― The wind is still dreadful, bed at 9.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Saturday, 26 May 1860

X10.

Rose early ― 4. Packed. Close cloudy morning. Breakfast with R.C. alias RC. Hurry & crowd in omnibus, & difficulty of getting luggage weighed &c. &c. Rail at 10. Agreable little man ― M. Emile De la Rue. ― Much talk of Sicily &c. ― Beautifully rich plains of Marengo. ― Turin at 2.15. No difficulty about luggage. Trombetta’s Hotel very full. D. Augusto Ruspoli. RC got a room, I not. He is worrying about prices, & seems not to wish now to go over to M. Cenis in a carriage. We lunched together, but as he wants to dine out at a cafè to save a franc or two, I advise a separate state all day. ― At 3 I went out & walked “all about the place,” wh. greatly pleases me ― nothing more than the obelisk commemorating the downfall of Ecclesiastical supremacy. Then I went across the Po, & up to the Capuccini ― whence the view is very grand: & returned by 6.30 or 7 by the public gardens. The whole morale & physique of Turin is refreshing after Rome.

Washed & dressed ― having now got a room. ― ――

George I suppose is off to C. Vecchia from Leghorn by this.

Was dining or supping alone when RC came in & supped too ― επειτα εμειτα χειρισα το Πιανο ((Then we [play] the piano.)) ― & to bed at 10.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Friday, 25 May 1860

Rose at 4½. ― Fine. At 5.30, G. & I went to the Quay ― observing old women picking bits of wood from the loads. ― After a time ― at 6.30 ― the boats came from the steamers, & R. Cholmondeley & Waterton were there. ― At 8, we all breakfasted together, very pleasantly. ― Poi they to my room. Επειτα ((Then.))― packed. ――― At 12 paid G. his 26 Napoleoni ― & gave him his ticket ― & a letter to Shakespear.

Μοι φαινεται “αφυσικον πραγμα” ― το με να εχω αυτον πλεον ομου με εμε ― και οικια τον αφισω! ((With the help of Google Translator, I have come to the conclusion that Lear meant: “It seems to me a ‘freak thing’ to have him with me ― let him go home.”))

Good George. ― ―――― May you reach your mother & wife & children well!
At 1 Lunched with Waterton & C. much fun. W. φέρε τινά  πραγματα εις την Γαλλια. ((Brings [all] sort of things to France (GT).)) At 2 C. & I saw Waterton off in a boat.

At 3.20 saw dear good George Kokali to a boat: he said one “Grazie” ((Thank you.)) in his own quiet way that was worth a heap of words. I have tried to do as well for him as I could, & trust he has gained by coming to me. ― A better human being I have not known.

At 4.30 ― walked out with RC to the Acqua Sola, & to the [Conca dei Cafè], where we had ices &c. ― That street is assuredly beautiful. ― then downwards, till at the [P.] Doria, RC went back. I went on alone, beyond the Lighthouse: so splendid a city hardly exists as Genoa! ―

Returning, by the lower street, saw the Malta Steamer, with many boats round ― just going off: ― & by my glass I could see G. at the bowsprit, standing, calmly enough, & perobbably smoking.

At the Hotel by 7.30 & dinner with RC at 8 ― pleasant enough. ―

πολλα πραγματα δεν εγραφ δη σαν. ((Many things I did not write about (GT).)) ―

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Thursday, 24 May 1860

God bless the Queen: ((Queen Victoria was born on 24 May 1819.)) & may she live heaps of years. ― Slept well. Cloudy morning. News of Garibaldi good so far as one can see or believe. Breakfast at 9. ― At 10½ go with G. to take ticket but find that the passport won’t do without visé of English Consulate ― which I got, & then [procure] ticket for Malta in the Quirinale, wh. I am glad G. is to go in.

[επειτα, επαρη πατησαμεν ολογυρα ολα το τσιχη, και δια τους Κηπους “Ακουα=σολα,” ― και κουθα ς την θαλασσην, εως το Ξενοδοξειον ― που εφθασα μεν εις δοδεκα τεταρτον]. ((On the basis of Google Translator I guess Lear is describing a walk: “Then I walked a bit around the [] and through the Gardens of Aqua=sola and [] the sea [] I arrived at 12¼.”)) ― ― ― Partly slept, or read, or dawdled: read papers, & heard G. read. ― And walked a bit alone. ― At 5 table d’hôte, some 30 or 40. Η τρομερα αντι μου ((The awesome (i.e. Mme Bonaparte) in front of me.)) ― & very queer & formidable she is. Her son is not overpromising to see: & she puts elbows on table ― twirls knives & forx, & does all kinds of maniac faccende ― having arranged her cap & dress at table. Two very toady[-]like persons came to her before dinner was ended ― as yesterday.

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Επειτα  ― walked out with G., but he seemed queer & absent, so I let him go home soon, wh. he seemed glad to do. ―

Back by 8¼.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Wednesday, 23 May 1860

Very lovely morning. Inn dear & bad. Off in a ramshackle with G. at 5.45. Rapallo pretty from the west. Very lovely essence of cultivation all the way, & long coast lines to Levanto. ― St. Lorenzo della Costa, & then La Ruta ―: chesnuts & great hills. Tunnel, & a lovely view of Genoa, & thence always ― in & out, up & down, by Recco, Soli, ((Sori.)) (where the hill had nearly crushed the town 3 months ago ―) & Boliastro, ((Probably Bogliasco.)) ― (?) & Nervi, (where we nearly crushed a child,) & Quinto, ((Quinto al Mare.)) & Quarto ((Now Quarto dei Mille.)) ― (where I [minded me] of Isabella Spinola ―) & so by San Martino ― & the Hotel Feder at 10. ― The views of Portofino from this side are beautiful, but one must stay at La Ruta Hotel to do any good. ― Breakfast. ― & arranging boxes till 1 or 2 &c. &c. ―

At 3 inquired about place for G. to Malta. At 5, dined at Table d’hôte & sate next M.me “Buonaparte / Wise.”  I recognized her by the likeness to D. Giuseppe ― & Giulia B. ― never having seen her before. ειναι βεφαιως γυνη τρομερα. (([] woman is terrible (GT).)) A kind of Pole or Italian Frenchman sate opposite & talked incessantly to her: ― when she spoke of the “Campells” & others I could not resist chiming in, (to her intense surprise,) as I knew the name of all from the days of [Merignano]. She said all that estate is sold to Torlonia, but when I asked her if D. Giuseppe still was called Prince of Corsica her contempt was extreme, “Comment donc? quand il est Prince de la famille Imperiale?” ([ειχα με αστην ενας νεος της ηλικιας ισως δεκα εξ και εφ αινη δη ου υ εος δης]. ―) A bouncing & tremenjus fat little female is this Lady, but bears marks of great beauty ― tho’ the expression is not exactly likeable.

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After dinner walked out with G.K. ― & returned to bed at 9.30.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Tuesday, 22 May 1860

Very clear & fine. Rose 4.30. Send baggage on to Rapallo, ― & was off with G. by 5. The Hotel & people are good. Finished drawing of last night ― walked in shade, great rox: near Cavi di Lavagna ― of which & distant Lavagna made a sketch. Stationary steamer towing [a] Marine σκαν Γόχειρις. 6.30 ― Walk on, Cavi di Lavagna: hot dry road, aloe-edged ― Sicilian to see. Lavagna at 7.30, fine church: ― bustling place: painted houses: chairs made: cane hedges: lots of [Shadoofs] ― & gt. cultivation. ― At Chiavari by 8, large town ― fine buildings ― (first pass the river, with trees & washerwomen.[)] City, pleasant & sparkling ― gay with color: hills round, beautifully dotted, villas, olive, & pine. Mountains beyond. Stones by roadside: hurt my knee. Prison=like edifiss. We leave the sea, & go to the Feenix hotel, town, narrow, paved streets, arches. Appearance at the Fenice slow & bad, but breakfast really good. Young girl of statistic but erroneous views, says there are 15000 animi ((Souls, i.e. people.))  here. 9.15 prepare to go, bill 5 francs. “[gr.].” ((A large ink blot makes reading the greek and some words from the lines below difficult.)) says G. of the landlady, [who] hath a beard. ― 9.30, set off , immensely rich gardens ― lemons [melograms], medlars, olives, & a palm or two. ― 10 ― going up a severe hill, view of Chiavari fine: drew till 11.15. Long ascent, lower olives, ― pinewood, ― blkbirds. Highest point of road, 12.10. Cabbage growing on a wall ― “ἁφυσκιὸν.” ((Unnatural (GT).)) ― Below ever the mirror calm fretted blue sea! & these odorous sighing pines! ― 12.30, Descent always ― infinite olives & figs, a close-grained tapestry from hill side to hill side: ― red, & w., & yellow houses enlivening the land up. G.’s detestation of false windows. ― 1, Storm in the hills. Zoagli: very pretty ― & fine steeple. Drew till 2, very beautiful & Italian. A little rain. Intensely lovely hills of olive wood, with thickly strewn houses. Long circles of coast to reach Rapallo, & no drawing. At 3.20 reach Rapallo, dirty & dull place. Poste Hotel ― ill-tempered hostess: particularly filthy room & nasty house. Ordered dinner, & went out with G. ― but it rained, & I could hardly do anything. Bay of Rapallo dead, & shut up. Women make lace. All is a contrast to the Spezzia province. Dinner not very bad. Ἔπειτα, insisted on, & got a better room ― & came to bed at 8. No sleep; fleas, bugs, gnats, ants; noisy geese: ― fidgety sea: lightening all night, crying child: & all sorts of sturbi. ((Disturbances.))
XXXX9

Read Œdipus Coloneus.

I fancy I have done well anyhow to make this Giro, ((Tour.)) intermediate between Rome & London, it would never have done to sit down to hard work on the memories of V. Condotti. At least now there is the Gulf of Spezzia & the Carrara hills to think of as nearer facts. ―I find the Portofino promontory can’t be walked round ― so I have ordered a car for tomorrow.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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