Wednesday, 28 December 1864

The wind fell, & stars riz ― so there were hopes of fine weather. Cats jumped about in that vast church-like dining room ― & threw down lots of chairs: yet on the whole slept well.

Diano. 3 P.M. 28 December 1864. (112).

Diano. 3 P.M. 28 December 1864. (112).

A strange rambling inn & very Italian: a W.C. opening out of the huge room ― & all the other rooms ― doors & windows, banging & screeching with the fearful storm of wind. Frivolities of lace & curtains ― ἀντὶ[1] bolts & shutters. ― At 5 I woke, & it was calm & fine; so I decided to send luggage by Vetturinos, returning with empty carriages ― & walking. Rose at 5.30, ― & by 7 was impatient for bill & coffee: ― but could not get off before 8. The morning was lovely: Drew Languelia ― that most compact & picturesque little town, twice ― till 9.30. Then came up the Capo delle Mele ― & happily with little or no wind ―: & there took leave of the Genoese views ― C,. di Noli ― &c. Much warmer day. Down to the uninteresting bay of Adorna[2] ― & up on the other side, where we lunched ― (hard eggs & salami,) & I drew ― till 1. P.M. C. delle Mele has really very little beauty ― but its lighthouse is fine & grandly built. Nor has the dull valley of Adorna any claim to “arrest the traveller.” At 1. went on round the Capo of Adorna, & at Cervi[3] ― drew that perky town, & thence by the straight olive=road to Diano. That town is not interesting in itself, tho’ the whole valley is so from its multitude of villages & profusion of olive culture.

Drew twice ― 2.30 ― & 3 ― on the west side ― & then slowly came up the high cape ― & by degrees ― at 4 ― 4.15 ― down the hill to Oneglia. Found luggage all right: & it is evidently a good if not a cheap plan to send it on by Vetturini thus.

At 5.30 dined ― & at 7.30 γράφω τοῦτο.[4]

The Valley of Diano is perhaps the most beautiful & rich of all in this Riviera.

[1] Instead of.

[2] Actually Andora.

[3] Cervo, Lear is not very good with Italian place names at this point.

[4] Write this.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]


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