Monday, 26 December 1864

Capo di Noli, from Capo Basteggi. RISD Museum.

Capo di Noli, from Capo Basteggi. RISD Museum.

Expenses come up ― carriage of luggage hither, porterage, a champagne included ― to 40fr. ἀκριβὸ[1] ― says G. At 5.30, I feel dismayed by observing total cloud on the celestial space: but the dying moon is seen, & apparent day. Rose by 7 ― & after coffee, left at 7.30 ― this very good Hotel. The cold winds are awful. Nevertheless Savona must be drawn, so down I go to the seaside, & spite of violent & bitter wind, & sand in clouds ― I drew ― tooth & nail ― the best I could. Then thro’ the walled long suburbs ― remarking on our incoming 8 days back in pouring rain. Nuts in strings (like Jerusalem beads,) ― painted signs: tiles: potteries. Gardens & villas ― & so to near Vado, before wh. I drew again below a boat ― with gt. difficulty. Passing Vado, I drew “a mouldered citadel,” & at 9.30 ― prepared to ascend the Capo Basteggi ― with fear ― (I own ―) as the wind was dreadful. At times I had to hold by the rocks, & once or twice thought I would go back: but G. said ― Prima di tornare, bisogna provare colli  piedi e mani Signore.[2] So I got to the point, where the wind blew not. At 11 we settled in a cavity on the overt side, & I drew C. di Noli, & the Isola. (An ugly drunken man nearby pestered me, but went on, & collapsed into a hedge, where he is till noon.) Then we lunch ― but it is a feeble lunch ― tho’ the wine is good ― yet so cold we can’t drink it. It is awful cold. At noon we go ― but I funk Capo di Noli. ― Down to shore: the “ugly man” has gone on, & singeth ― at wh. G. says ― πρέπει νὰ εἴναι μειθυσμένος,  ἐπειδὴ τραγουδεῖ.[3] ― Spatorno[4] is reached, ― & passed ― little it has of interest: &, being a festa day[5] ― few people are visible. Then the big rox of Noli, & the little city, wh. I draw again, & once more, having passed it. Next, the ascent to C. di Noli, about 2: ― & at feet quiet, but seeing the white waves, I knew what was to follow. Towards the point, the violent wind was terrible, & for some 100 yards one could not stand. Not to be beaten however, I, & also G. after a while, sat down, & clinging by the rocks, & stopping in the big blasts, ― shuffled on to the mouth of the Galleria ― after wh. one was comparatively safe. I confess however, that quarter of an hour was disgusting & [terrifying].[6] Beyond this, those giant & terrible walls of rock were almost impossible to draw, tho’ I tried 2 or 3 times: they are too vast, to be easily sketched, & there is no time for study. Nevertheless I did all I could, patient George always helping me with heavy stones or otherwise: The ugly drunk man passed singing cheerier than ever. At length ― 3.30 ― I ceased to work, & we went straight on ― in bitterest cold & wind, ― to Finale ― arriving at 4.15 ― just as the Diligence did also, bringing the Roba. So one was soon at the Hotel della China, & in the same room as before. A good dinner at 6: & talk with the intelligent Waiter for want of other company. It is now 8.30. ―

How to get luggage to Alassio αὕριον?[7]

9 P.M. The wind is awfully high ― gt. gusts. As the waiter says ― this cannot last, & either fine calm, or rain follows.[8]

9.30 It pours with rain!!!!!!!

End of December 26th.


[1] Expensive.

[2] Beofre going back, one must try with feet and hands, Sir.

[3] He must be drunk, because he sings (NB).

[4] Spotorno, actually.

[5] A holiday.

[6] The page is blotted here.

[7] Tomorrow.

[8] The rest of the entry is at the bottom of the facing diary page.


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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