Friday, 23 December 1864

Up at 6. Bright cold & clear. Coffee at Café at 7 ― & off, 7.15 ― to the Walls ― (alas! mountains (with mist) not clear! ―) & drew till 9.15. Came back ― bought Photographs & boox ― & breakfasted, & it is now noon: & I have written to C.F. ― F.L. Ellen Newsom, ― T. Cooper, ― Drummonds, & Lady Duncan. Saw Vetturini,[1] but they ask monstrous prices ― 4£ to Savona, being Xmas. So, ἀποφασίσωμεν ἐγῶ καὶ ό κλέφτης[2] ― that I will risk the weather, & send on the luggage to Savona tomorrow, going on foot as far as Cogoletto[3] ― & to Savona the next day. Set out at 1 ― & drew again at the spot below the Lanterna, a wonderful Coast scene ― but the hill never became clear. Then I made some useful studies of Genova, (always in Periwinkles or Pericles of my life ― as M. Kestner used to say ― from the tearing Omnibi, ― raging mules, ― erroneous asses, & other bores. At 3.15 ― we came all athwart the town, & were in at the sunset on the wall below Carignano ― but it never became clear. Nevertheless I think my drawings may be useful. The splendour of Genoa is sunset! And the streets too: also the women & their dresses. Certainly Genoa is a delightful place. Posted 6 letters. “Packed” & dined at 6. They are profuse ^[in food] & moderate in charges ― dinner 4fr. My & G.’s room ― 4½. Mulatto boy with Buenos Ayres family: ― & French folk dining at the table d’hote table, ἐγῶ μοναχῶς.[4]

All things being warmed up, I am going to pack, & to bed; hoping for a fine day, & a good journey to the Nice home.


[1] Coachmen.

[2] Me and the thief decided (NB).

[3] Cogoleto.

[4] I, alone.


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1864, Diary Entry

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