Sunday, 18 December 1864

Rose at 6. The morning was gray, just like yesterday. Paid ^[(40.50)] ― a good hotel: & off by 7.30 in the one-horse trap G. went in to Alassio yesterday, ― to go to Savona for 15fr.

Noli. 18 December 1864. (62)Watercolor, sepia ink and Chinese white over graphite on tan paper.20 x 54.2 cm.

Noli. 18 December 1864. (62)Watercolor, sepia ink and Chinese white over graphite on tan paper.20 x 54.2 cm.

As far as Varigotti, I knew the road ― & shortly beyond, I left the Car to go on, & set out to walk. Unluckily it soon began to rain, so that I could not draw any part of Capo di Noli, which is certainly immensely grand as a rock & sea scene. Beyond is doubtless one of the finest views in all the Riviera, but all the distance was indistinct. Stopped ― cold & wet, ― in a lull of rain, to draw Noli & Spotorno: the former is very picturesque, cum towers. Fishers abound ― & we passed outside the town. Along the beach, to Spotorno, a place of more pretension as to large & painted houses, with Gardens, oranges &c. Beyond, the coast is lonely ― & by 10.30 ― now in rain, now without, we got over the Cape opposite the ugly little beastly island of Basteggi.[1] Further on, the village of Basteggi is niched into the hill, & then follows a headland with awful landslip & dangerous rushes of stone, wh., if it rains much more will diffuse themselves still more to the annoyance of the traveller in Ligurian Riviera. ― At the next turn, Vado was visible, & also Savona very plain, but it rained hard, & it was only in another lull at 11.30. that I & G. ate lunch casually ― standing behind a tree ― of a cold fowl & Tunny=Bottarga: sticking what we could not eat, in bits of paper, on thorns: for others’ benefit. ― Hence it rained harder & harder ― & the road was ever between walls ― with here & there a few shops, (rows of nuts &c. for sale,) & some great shut villas: until we reached Savona at 1.15 quite wet ― & got to the Hotel Reale, where the luggage was already arrived. It is now 2.45 ― & being [blotted word], I sit at an open window ― the rain raining hard into a Corfu-like harbour full of boats recalling other days. What a journey! ― & what to do next? ― || All the way along the road the works of the Railway ― & tremendous they are ― are going on, as if it were not Domenica.[2] || Having walked about till 4.45, thereafter came the table d’hôte dinner, & lo! ― no end of “Mess” dinner ― ossifers, & 2 ladies: 2 English Engineers ― youngsters. The dinner became allegro,[3] & no end of bottles of Champagne were distributed, & healths ― “all’Inghilterra” & “all’Italia” ― till we broke up. Then, I, sitting with the 2 Engineers, had a bottle of Marsala, & very pleasant company till past 8. ― G. came in, & I said, if it rains, don’t call me. Indeed, what to do?

Noli. [18 December 1864?] Watercolor and sepia ink on cream paper. 35.1 x 50.7 cm.

Noli. [18 December 1864?] Watercolor and sepia ink on cream paper. 35.1 x 50.7 cm.

Cogoletto? ― in Diligence to Genova?

X


[1] Actually “Isola di Bergeggi” and, below, village of “Bergeggi,” where is now situated a wildlife sanctuary.

[2] Sunday.

[3] Merry.


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1864, Diary Entry

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