Friday, 16 December 1864

Woke at 6 ― cloudy. Rose at 7, clearer: ― & “resolve” to go on. Pay bill (53 fr.) ― Coffee ― (bed) &, having directed the 2 trunx to Finale, leave them with the waiter, & set off, 8.30. Very long street of village or city ― highly cinquecento ― & a long similar suburb beyond walls. Rise ― shore & cliff road: ― & drew the bay, which is only pretty from brightness ― & “multitudinous” qualities. About 9.15. descent toward Albenga ―& come to a marshy plain, olive-grown at intervals. Later, the ancient city itself, many-towered ― wh. It towers I saw on January 5. of this year. It is very mediœval & picturesque, & the day being fine & the snow-hills clear ― a pleasure. While drawing, the 2 Americans passed & greetings ensued. Walk, by flat road to city, & go round it: also enter it. Very quaint & compact & full of character, & I could willingly stay a night there, to see the towers &c., for wh. There is now not time enough. I recall Amatrice, in the streets & tall houses. Hence, a long road between vines & many fields ― (& passing Ponte Lungo[)] ― a grand Roman bridge: a broad fine plain, &  grand site for a city. Along the straight long road till I reach Ceriale, at the sea side, about 11.30, or 12: like all these towns ― a street along the shore. Arrive at a high rising ground or cape, whereon the view is fine both ways. Drew ― & at 12.30, Lunch; à la Κρητικὰ[1] ― on salt fish & bread & Marsala. 1.15. off, & pass Borghetto S.S.[2] old, walled, ―marshy & flat ― semi cultivated.

Alassio. 16 December 1864. (45) Watercolor, sepia ink and Chinese white over graphite on tan paper.35.6 x 53.6 cm.

Alassio. 16 December 1864. (45) Watercolor, sepia ink and Chinese white over graphite on tan paper.35.6 x 53.6 cm.

Passed river 1.30. Thence the road was narrow & between walls, to Loano. Very long narrow street, savouring of past grandeur. The river runs close by the E. gate of the city (wh. Is a very uninteresting one,) & an old man told me all about the accident. The waves were very high ― the ford close by the sea. A cart had just past & said all was safe, but as the Diligence entered the water, the stream “came down” suddenly, 3 or 4 feet high, ―the horses were frightened, & the passengers more so, & so the disgrazia.[3] We cross on a high bridge higher up: a castle of the Doria, & a convent, picturesque. Low, maize cultivated ground: lead on to Pietra ― another large place, near wh. Were very large Orange & Lemon Gardens. Beyond ― long straight uphill road. Ever the growing railway aboundeth. Drew a bridge & river scene.

Later in a village ― (Boggi?) ― & thence by innumerable railworks toward Capo Capra Zoppa, wh. We reached about 4. The rolling green sea was magnificent ― the tunnel, & draw Finale, very picturesque, till dark. Town by 5. Albergo della China. Large wilderness Sala. No luggage came yet. Dined very well at 5.30.

It is now 7.30 & no dilly. It does not seem that the roba will come, so I must make up my[4] mind to sleep as best I can: a bore, ― but one good thing is I am deadly sleepy. At 9 ― after talking a great deal with an intelligent man of Asti, I succumb to circumstances & come to bed ― to sleep in shirt & trousers. It is of no use to think of tomorrow, ― ”Sufficient unto &c.” ―

After a while, I was awakened ― by the cameriere saying that the diligence had come ― but had brought no luggage.

[* 5000 workmen on Genoa line.][5]


[1] The Cretan way (?).

[2] Borghetto Santo Spirito.

[3] Accident.

[4] The entry continues at the bottom of the facing page for 17 December.

[5] In a box at the bottom of the page for 16 December, but no asterisk is to be found in the entry: it clearly refers to the railway under construction.


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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