Saturday, 10 December 1864

Rose at 6.15. ― A fine, but gray, & very cold morning. At 7.10 ― off in a one-horse-vettura cum funny little dog, ― luggage behind & before. Soon beyond the P.S. Luigi,[1] is the Italian Douane ^[8. A.M.)], where the Officials were utterly courteous & amiable. Above tho’, are some magnificent Coast views looking west ― perhaps the finest of all: ― but it was too early to stop here: ― so also I thought as we got to Ventimiglia ― at 8.30, whence we walked, sending on voiture & luggage. The town, on the east side is wonderfully picturesque, ― torrent, broken bridge ― old houses, &c. &c. Drew, tho’ half frozen, till I could not hold my pencil ― 9.30. Extreme picturesque & varied houses. ―

We went on ― more traffic ― but less interesting road. The river Paglia, good bridge ― & inundated low land: long straight line of road, to Bordighera. Ever a cold gray sky. Go to shore, hoping to find a good view of the place, but do not. (“Non è permesso il trotto.”)[2] Aloes, & palms ― these last abundant, but not drawable & Bordighera invisible. Round the Cape, & finding nothing like what I had expected, went on, & drew by the roadside, looking back on Bordighera, where the new Tunnel is making. No good view, ― μὰ τὶ νὰ κάμω;[3] ― debate as to returning to Bordighera, but decide no. Lunch at 1-1.30. Cold food & wine: ever a pleasant hour, tho’ it was cold. How many quiet similar hours are to be remembered, ― while memory lasts! ― 1.45. I move, very cold. Sea ever smooth. Railway progress. Groups of Palms village of Spedaletto, below Colla, ― uninteresting, but is a bay of quiet peace. (Cherry tree leaves still on.) 2.45. Calm wide gray wrinkly sea. ― Ospedaletto ― a quiet village by the sea shore ― warm & sheltered: draw. 3. ― 3.45 ― ascent; ever calm & gray; ― but there is sadly little to draw, & I forebode still less. But εἷναι ἀνάγκην νὰ εἰδῶ[4] these parts. Beheld a man climbing telegraph poles with long attached-to-his-shoes claws of iron. At the next point, ever amid many workmen & stone quarrying, ― the long low lines of hill to Capo Verde, & S. Remo: drew therefrom again. And by 5.30, got to the large new Hotel de Londres. A not very satisfactory day ― but unavoidably droll. It was a comfort to wash, & to dine at the 6-o’clock Table d’hôte. Many English: & 2 Polish (ladies) who declared themselves hungry at the end of dinner, & ordered a 2nd.


[1] Pont Saint-Louis.

[2] Trotting is not allowed.

[3] But what can I do? (NB)

[4] I must see (NB).


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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