Slept very tolerably: thanx to Flea=powder. Rose at 4. Off with G. & an extinct Πλοίαρχος before 5. Morning quite clear, Candia visible ― but faint. We went north to the highest ground ― by long uncultivated tracks with rocky paths ― up to the hills overlooking the channel. Drew from 5.45 to 7.15. very calm & lovely ― though the mountains are not nearly so fine as those of Epirus. Peasant’s dress: babies in Carpet=bags. 7.15 ― we go on ascending gradually always ― passing a few Damascus-like houses ― the whole of the high table land of this mountain island becoming visible; near the top I was half inclined to draw that side, the S. West, but did not do so, not [not] knowing how much I should have to do farther on.
A few cottages stood alone, & several people ― of whom 2 came hastily & followed us, & when they reached us asked lots of questions. At the high level, the shore slopes to the North & the view of Taÿgetus is fine ― as is that of Κυθαίρα ― foreground a wild waste of green herbs ― σχίνος, πρινάρι, Cistus in gt. abundance, ― the small thorn=cushion Εὐφόρϐια, a bright ˆ[small] plentiful St. Johns wort, Thyme, Squills, Salvia, Arbutus, heath & wild Cypress. But these, the flowers at least, were in greater plenty as we came down Eastward to Καραϐὰ ― wh. is in a valley. Certainly these Greek mountain tops & sides are wondrous lovely, & the air is so here also. I drew, arriving at 8.30. till 9. At 9.15 ― I am sitting to write. Our guide is talkative about the “Cession,” & says “would to God that the minds of men had not been given over to forgetfulness of what is good, that they should they should [sic] prefer the rule of Ellenes who are thieves & hate laws & roads ― to English who do as far as they can rightly & well. Would to God the English were ever to stay here.[”] (“Ἢθελα, μὰ τὸν Θεὸν, νὰ μὴ ἐδώθησαν τα πνεύματα τῶν ἀνθρώπων νὰ λησμονήσωσι τὸ καλὸν, — ὃτι προτίμωσι τοῦς Ἒλλενες, οἲτινες εἲναι κλέφτοι, καὶ μισοῦν νόμους και δρόμους, παρὰ τῶν Ἃγγλων, οἱ ὁποίοι κάμουν ἐώς τὸ δυνατόν τῶν το δίκαιον καὶ το καλόν!”) Drew Καραϐὰ till 9.45 ― & then began a κατιφερότατυς ἀτακτάτικος δρόμος down slaty stairs, to one of the villages of Καραϐὰ: ― hotter & hotter & closer & closer, till the Oleanders were reached ― some of them in full blow. After passing the queer brown flat-roofed houses low down in the narrow gorge ― water was grateful from a fountain freely flowing forth. Planes also were there; ― I was reminded of Calabrian days. We went to see the wonderful Orange-tree bearing 15,000 oranges ― but found it no-wise remarkable. Rested & wrote till 10.30, below the Planes in this deep-ravine garden. Half way up the other side, we met the Πρωεστὸς, with a lot of others, (bunches of southernwood & pinks they proffered,) & so we wound up to near the town ― but turned into a or the ― priest=διδάσκαλος’s house, where I feared to find fleas, but was agreably surprised to see a nice clean room. Not but that it was soon filled with observers ― coming others, a sub Deputato from Α. Πελαγιὰ, who spoke English, asked continual questions, & was a bore wholly. Limonata ― & now it is 11.15. ―Then Lunch, ἔτζι κ’ ἔτζι, ― wing & leg of cold fowl ― old lettuce ― & 2 “biled eggs:” but the wine was ἀνυπόφερος & detestable. There was also some Ricotta, but I ate little, as ˇ[cold] water doth not digest food. It is now 12. The violent sea wind has set in & the Παπάς Δανιέλος has gone away. A clean little room ― full of pictures: one of the Emperor of Russia; one of heaven & hell, with a beautiful Devil whose tail ends in a Bell. ― (continued ― page B.)
Continued from May 21.
1 P.M. ― The heat of the room & the bore of flies cause me to open the door. Wind again! 1.5 ― We go― taking leave of the Παπὰς Δανιέλος & his  clean little house. (The Sotto Deputato’s sister is my guide’s wife ― Ανδρέα Δελακουϐία.) Also the Πρωεστὸς accompanied me some way, & gave me 2 oranges at parting. The Sotto Deputy shouted ― “good-bye!” “safe home!” “good return” ― &c. &c. A long pull up, & at 2 we rest, not yet nearly at top. Below ― far below ― some 50 or 60 ships are about Capo Malea, & all the landscape is yellow from ripening corn ― pale dove=tawny. At 3, ― we are going on still over these endless Hebron Dead-Sea hills: fogs ahead ― rolling up from the N. West. A more stony lot of undulations
May 21st. continued.
cannot be seen. Larx however, enliven it by singing. Got to the Πρωεστὸς’s house by 4 ― & in spite of a high wind drew on the terrace till 5. What tall women these Potamites are!
It is now 5.30 ― & I am cleaned & washed as far as possible, & am to have the 2 carpets & a bag ― brought for inspection last night, ― for16 ― & a bag for one ― 17 in all. Dawdled up & down till  the sun went down. (σοῦ χρέα τοῦτο; ― said my host, asking me for a glass.) ― The high misty Maiella Mountains come back to me in memory. At 6.30. or 7. came George with soup, (rice & chicken,) & afterwards a Nover-boiled-fowl, a portion of wh. with cheese & bread & Marsala ― thanx to Bulwer, made my dinner, & sufficiently good. ― (Bulwer has sent 2 bottles of Smyrna wine, fresh bread, & cheese, today: very kindly & pleasant.) At 7.45 ― I read journals of the past: ― the rest of the family supping or preparing to sup ― for only now they are beginning to feed properly speaking.
 Captain (NB).
 The word is blotted.
 Mount Taygetus.
 Presumably Cythera.
 Schinus, kermes oaks (NB).
 Sun spurges (NB).
 Karavas, a small village in Cythera (NB).
 I wish to God that the minds of men wouldn’t have forgotten what is good, for they prefer the Greeks who are thieves, and hate laws and roads, over the English, who do as far as they can the right thing and the good thing (NB).
 Nina, guessing a bit, translates: “very steep and rough road.”
 Agia Pelagia.
 Insufferable (NB).
 One word has been blotted.
 The entry continues in the page opposite, marked “C.”
 One blotted word.
 Do you need this? (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]