Monday, 25 May 1863

alas for the Demon! Whether these things are gor good or evil, I know not.

During the night the wind & waves were by no means calm, so I rose at 3.30. And at 4 went out with George to the church above the Lighthouse. Considering what a swell there is insided the harbour, I am surprised to see the outer sea so quiet: ― yet, nevertheless it is vexatious to have so dull & semi=threatening a sky. Speriamo.[1] ― At 4.20 I go back to the Deputato’s & have coffee. At 5 again on the rocks above. ― 6 [wasting] still ― no signal ― west nor east. 7 ― ditto ― ditto ― ditto. 8 ditto-ditto-ditto. 8.30. No signal. ― wind increases. Deputy begins to fear that both vessels have gone round by the straits. (Giovanni Κασιματι, deputy of Καψάλι.[)] 10. No signal. Weather suddenly clears ― wind changed. I have been lunching with the above named cove, & his elder brother, & the wife of the Deputy. They are very kindly & civil ― tho’ the elder is a distinct bore.

Slept till 11. No signal yet. ― Immediately afterwards the East boat is signaled, & we embark ― Deputy ― G. & I. with roba & 4 marinari.

No small suffering in a blue but rolling sea before we get on board at 11.4[0] ― on board the Europa; & gladly I saw the faces of last week ― for indeed it was becoming an idée fixe that I must be another week here. At 11.45 ― we are off ― bright sun & rolling blue sea,, too much to be pleasant. At 12.30 we are leaving the S.W. end of Cerigo.

The outward aspic of the island, it must be owned, is werry dry & long: no green, & no houses being visible. At 1 ― we roll. The “Egg” rock is nearly invisible & the long line of Cerigo is fading ― nor can Matapan be discerned ― for the seafogs over the high land at the North end of Cerigo obscure it ― though I once thought I saw Taÿgeτω. 2. P.M. Matapan not yet passed: a sufficiency of rolling. 3 P.M. [nearing] Ματαπᾶν; go down to wash for dinner. 3.15 Ματαπᾶν passed. 3.30. Capo Grosso ― fine outline & detail ― but too much movement to draw. Excitement of passing t’other Steamer ― the Celere, which left Lyra the same time as Europa, but cut across north of Cerigo. We also met the Cephalonia & Zante boat about the same time. 4. dinner ― very good & pleasant ― barring rolling. 4.30. dinner over. 5.30. rolling sea, but fine everywhere. Talk with English Gentleman come from Constantinople. 5.45. ― 6 hours [Hong Root]. The Evening is lovely to look at, & the Greek Mountains would be so if they were more visible, but the swell of the sea impedes confusing. 6.45. 7. hours out. (But really it is 7.45.) & in about 8 hours more ― or 9 ― we ought to be at Zante. At 8 ― (9) we took tay, but I am stupid with rolling & noise: so at 9 ― i.e. 10 ― bed. ―


[1] Let’s hope.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry

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