Sunday, 24 May 1863

Rose at 4. Packed & arranged drawings till 6. Read Mrs. Harvey’s Cruise of the Claymore.[1]* At 9. breakfast with Bulwer whom one likes more by seeing more of. Talk of G.F.B. ― disagreable. Bulwer knows Up Park; also the Hammonds ― & various other mutual people. At 12 ― after a good deal of reading & talk ― I retire. At 1. I am ready to go & lunch with Massey ― having just given a dollar & a half to Τεοδόρος, & half a dollar to the fat Παιδὶ[2] ― both of whom bent down suddenly & kissed my hand. ((The Cerigotto people say O, yes! for ὄχι,[3] ― which comes then ὅχι ὅχιε, ὁχιές[4] ― o yes! ―)) At 1 lunched with the most amiable Massey ― than whom a simpler & nicer lad I never met. ― B. was also there. Pease & excellent bacon, he having vainly tried to get beans. A most pleasant meal, B. being very pleasant: a real kind fellow. It is now 3 ― & I believe we are to go out: Sorry the weather is cloudy, but I trust it may not play trix. (Massey very amiably gave me a little Greek book, about Cerigo, & a patent water cup.) At 9.[5] we loitered about the Fort, looking down on that strange Maltese-Saracenic Romantic town, backed by its Palermo ― Pellegrino like hill, & rooted into its black Hezekiah’s pool. At 5 we walked slowly down to the school, & round by the top of the town, returning by 6.15. At 7. came Massey to dinner, wh. was very good as usual, & certainly the kindness of Bulwer to a mere stranger & one out of his own position is remarkable & delightful. The same may be said of Massey: both of them are men such as one seldom lights on in out-of-the-way places. At 8.30 ― came Mr. Καλλονᾶ,[6] the Postmaster, who, with B. & M. Walked down with me to Καψάλι.[7] The half moon gave a beautiful somber light, but there is far more sea on than I like, & I hear them talking about the weather more or less doubtfully.

Ὅμως, they seem to think the Zante Steamer may touch.

I was housed at the Deputato’s ― in a most comfortable small room. G. is at the Dogana. And B. & M. are gone up to the lonely Citadel. Bed at 10.


* “tried, but failed” to draw the town of Cerigo from the fort, from 9 to 11.30.


[1] Annie Jane Harver, Our Cruise in the Claymore, with a visit to Damascus and the Lebanon. London: Chapman and Hall, 1861.

[2] Child (NB).

[3] No (NB).

[4] ὁχιές literally means “vipers!” Used for its similarity to όχι, usually, nowadays, as an answer to someone who says “no” all the time (NB).

[5] This is probably a misspelling of “4.”

[6] Kallonas.

[7] Kapsali.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry

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