Saturday, 16 May 1863

Rose at 4. Dressed & packed: & out by 4.45. Lovely shady=sunny morning, though not clear: & the pine feather=foliage against the sky brings back to me the days of Oatland & its Cedars ― Hackwood ― & other times & persons. ― A man comes towards me, ― & he says he is the real Αναστα[σιος] Καλγάσι,[1] & that the thieving individual who personified him was named Ἀνδρέας Πορπορος.[2] ― Breakfast at 5. ― and at 5.30 we are pretty nearly ready to start: ― C.Lane, like F.L. prolongs breakfast while I ever would shorten it. G. & I delighted in an old white tree trunk ― just like a recumbent camel. ―― Drew on the way down ― (just outside the wood, beyond the place of poor Parker’s murder,) ― but the Gulf of Corinth never cleared up well. Reached S. Liberale ― head of zigzags ― by 7. (A bevy of dogs, ― both [now] & when we came attacked us afar off from a [illegible]― & with them one pig ― most ridiculously pointing with them & grunting as they barked,) ― & down at the plain of San Γεράσιμος by 8.20. ― sending G. on to the carriage ― (waiting for us in the Ἀργοστώλι road,) & we 2 went on to the Monastery. The gateway of S. Gerasimos is fine. Saw the 2 churches, & the tomb of the respected Saint: ― & we entered the Monstery ― & had a shady Limonata. ― The place is a seedy place ― & L. being a sort of king ― things are solemn.

After this we came on ― & got to the Residency by 10.30.

I do not know what more I could have done by way of “trying” to draw the black Mountain. ――― Lunch ― reading papers ― & so on till 2, when the carriage came again, & I went ― G. also ― to Λιϐαδῶ ― drawing 3 times at Καλογάτα, & Δωμάτα,[3] ― but it was hot & hard work, for I had mostly to stand in the Road. The vegetation of this part of the Island is wonderfully lovely & luxuriant ― aloes especially in abundance: ― & all the villages contrast singularly with the bleak & bald character of so much of Kephalonia. A horrible neuralgic toothache or browague drove me half mad on my return at 7, but it grew somewhat better with Lane’s doctoring, & afterwards with dinner. A most pleasant evening with that kind good fellow. Bed at 11.

 


[1] Anastasios Kalgasi.

[2] Andreas Porporos.

[3] Kalagata and Domata.


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry

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