Saturday, 2 May 1863

Made a little scrapsketch of the harbour ― having had coffee at 5.45 ― & so was off by 6.15. ― that quiet kindly good fellow Braidy coming with me all the way to Ὀωισ’ Αετὸ ― by 8. ― There, we found the ferryman was absent, & I thought we might have stay all day, when 2 men were found, & we were off ― (rowing ― no wind,) by 8.30. ― At the middle of the Channel there was a good breeze, & we reached Samos at 10.30. exactly. ― Samos is somewhat bigger than when I was here in 1848 ― but is still a very slow place. Went to the house of Sig. Tambaki, the Deputato ― with Count Roma’s letter: I had rather have gone to an Inn, but there is no help for it. A large rambling house ― one of the rooms of which they give up to me & my roba ― & I send Giorgio for food. Both Mr. & Mrs. Tambuki are friendly & polite.

Went out at 11.15 ― walked along the seedy shore; saw a goat killed ― & an attempt at Mule making ― a Gentleman & 10 men ass=isting. Returned & had some bread eggs & wine ― all rather ἔτζι κ’ ἔτζι. Very hot overcast scirocco day after 12 ― & my head has got somewhat unwell by the sun in the boat. Dawdled out ― more mule=making. At 1.30 ― went out with G. & a man to show me old Samos. Disagreable & steep long pull to the top: ― the is much of extreme picturesqueness in the Ruins here & there, but it is very difficult to combine the best parts of them with the distance. The extent of the walls is great. G. very cross, & I do not know how I have given him cause for complaint: perhaps it would be better to send him back from Argostoli.* Drew the walls from 3 to 4 ([])[1] & went up to the top of the Citadel. I wish I could have done more with the walls ― (which are very dark gray,) but I can’t manage them, grand & “suggestive” though they be. Came down by the other side, & wearied to find “point de vûe.” Timid women & children with old coins: ― one seemed good, charioteer & horses. ― But I came to the west side of the hill, & saw the best part of the walls above, & toiled up again to them, leaving G. & the Guide below. These walls are really magnificent. Afterwards, having returned to the valley wh. separates the 2 divisions of Old Samos, I went up to the Monastery of Αγιοι Φανέντες,[2] built on very fine Hellenic walls, but ˇ[the building] being deserted, we could not get inside. Then, at 6.15. came back to this dirty dreamy place. The times are out of joint. Giorgio, ὅμως[3] ― gave me a good dinner, & set out my own little bed, where ― defying fleas & bugs (with flea powder ―) I slept well[.]

*I was more in fault than George ― being out of temper {July 18 1863[.]

 


[1] One word has been cancelled.

[2] Agioi Fanendes, The Saints who Revealed (NB).

[3] Though (NB).


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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