Monthly Archives: April 2013

Friday, 10 April 1863

Rose at 5. ― Poor M.’s life! Τι Ζωῆ![1] ― (the dogs ― Mops & brooms ― O! ――)

At 5.45. walked out by the calm harbor, & then drew opposite ― on the Quay ― the Residency, till 7.15. Very lovely bright morning, & the air here is exquisite. By 7.45 ― I am at Monte di Karalambo, where I draw till 9.30. Nothing can be more beautiful than the dark gray [ara] or olives, & the “light upon the shining sea.” I wonder how poor little Καραλαμπος is, & if poor Giorgio will be nere to night by the steamer ― for I hardly think he will come by the boat now: ― I shall be truly glad to know his boys are recovering. ― Of the 6 days I am here, much of my pleasure has been owing to Dickenson, ―much to health, ― much to that confort ― which, though now & then interrupted, increases with the longer absence of the “κακοδαίμον.[”][2] ― Murray’s place however would be indeed trying in wet weather ―― one may say impossible. What will the other 5 islands turn out for me. On returning ― walked a little with Dickenson: ― smiles ― Monkshood ― growing everywhere: Ferns ― grow 3 feet high or so. Rocky ― south hill: walls: ― formerly vineyards. sea gray ὥς ’ς την Ἀγγλίαν.[3]

I packed all I could on returning, & was ready for M.’s dinner by 1.40. ― Dickenson dined also ― & a pleasant dinner it was. Much fun, & good feeling. Poor M. is never sour or acrid ― yet talks of Hopes & [Hopetouns] & so many more alto grado suo ― calmy. At 3.30, after wine in the Workshop, D. & I set out, by very ἀνώμαλοι δρόμοι,[4] to wild olive grown lands, & then bare sloping hills: formerly vine grown. Hence, a descent, alquanto []: & violent, & then steps & queer shivery ˇ[sea] overhanging places ―― so I give it up. Till reflecting that “giving up” is no buono ― I resolved to go on, or down rather ― & did so, to a wild fine rock arch which I drew.

Menawhile D.’s kindness in clearing away stones, & going carefully &c. was most pleasant, & thus I really got a view I could not have hoped for ― my 26th & last in Paxò. I have seldom met a more peculiar fellow than D. a scholar, & full of study & observation & energy: apt to be a fond of his profession: & modest as possible, & matter of fact in extreme. We reached home by 7.30 ― just as it began to rain hard & sate smoking &c. till 9 ― when Joseph Daniel Dickenson went away. A little time longer with Murray, who declares he will rise at 1 or 2. ― It is now 9.30 ―: I tremble for at a chance of change of weather ― for the Steamers don’t touch if it is rough: anyhow, the bore of going out to sea in a boat is no small one. I wonder if G, will be there.

Miss Murray’s address ― Keith Lodge ― Upper Norwood.


[1] What a life! (NB)

[2] Evil demon (NB).

[3] As in England (NB).

[4] Rough roads (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Thursday, 9 April 1863

Coffee ― looked in on Dickenson. Off by 5.45. ― Mules beneath the olives ― “Gentlemen of Paxò[”] ― [they] eat the dead leaves. Civility & quiet of people. Yellow green patches of pale lichen on all olive branches, ― color of stems not dark, but pigeony gray brown. Walls perpetual: gray stone, okry & rusty & some white. Those old trees wh. are other than long thin scraggy, affect eccentric shapes ― screws, &c. &c. ― Ἄγιος Καραλάμπος[1] ― invisible villages ―― sea of olives ― expanse of water. At Μιτζελάτικα I asked for the Πρωεστός, ἀλλὰ δὲν ἢτο ἐκεῖ.[2] But a civil man went on to another civil man’s house, who locked his shop up & walked on with me: & I certainly should not otherwise have found the path, wh. is difficult to hit. 7.45, the civil man having gone, & I having found my point, drew till 9.15; the Πρωεστός meanwhile joining me, which his company I could have dispensed with. The Cliff scene & seal island are really grand ― awful. A golden sort of burnished hue is given to the dark black waters below the yellow cliffs ―― silence & tremendous depth beyond: ― over the hill peers Lefchimo & all Corfû. At 9.30 I am hoping the Πρωεστός is not going to return from the Σπήτι τῶν Ἐλλήνων[3] ― which he has gone to see, but which I declined. At 9.40 I return. Cottages very squarely built: roadside walls higher here, with stones 1863-04-09 let in sidewise a la Westmoreland. Endless terrace walls. Having shirked my friends I pursue my way to Καλακάτικα, & then down, down, down, but miss the pretty descent to Παπαδῆ, arriving on the other side of the Church by a worse abruptious paved pathway. A good old woman volunteered to send me on to Lacca, & went some way with me, consigning me to other placid folk, 2 of them carrying heavy stones, whereby I think of “cinque terre.”[4] At 10.20 ― I reach the Δημόσιος δρόμος,[5] & prepare to lunch below olives, in shade sunshine & silence. A low wall serves as a seat, & the convenient flat stones around make perfect tables: 10.50 ― lunch done ― ½ a pigeon & a portion of cold lamb, bread ― of which I gave away most to a small boy ― & later to a very sweet-faced little girl ― her mother very handsome. They all have a tame good expression here. Ithaca red wine also & a Negg. Stillness ― absolute stillness! ― long & memberless stripe shadows from Olive branches, falling on dry stone walls ― sides & tops ― dry white & gray stream=bed stones ― manyfold=crossed gray pearly olive branches & stems with deep spots & shades ―― dull green motionless starry=foliage, ― the white road, ― & moss with knots of herbs. The Asphodel I see not ― but fresh lordly squill, feminine Myrtle, & graceful   .[6] It is time to go on to Λάκκα. || Walked slowly on, down towards the sea: if possible the olives are more & more lengthy armed than ever, & their shadows in more dense network. Only the church of St. Andrea is drawable: & the walled village of Λάκκα not at all so; I walked round the little port, & the real Ἀντίοχος ― the “deputy” here joined me  from the Sanità. He was 6 years in Canada, where he married ― he left Παξοῦς at 13 as a sailor boy ― went for many years to all parts of Southern N. America, Charleston ― N. Orleans, Mobile. Afterwards to Canada, where he married & staid 11 years ― being 20 away altogether. Then he returned here  some 7 years ago ― having been born in 1822. Ἀντόνιος Ἀντίχιος ― (the brother is Ἀθανάσιος ―) he laments moving back. At 12.30, I am to go to lunch with him ― the Deputy: wh. is an awful bore, but he evidently would be pleased by my doing so; ― so having staved off Pork & Eggs, there is to be some fish fried a purpose. What will the wife be like? ― || “Wah” ― the house was clean & nice, & the wife not a bad specimen of backwood Canadian Anglosaxon. With the kindest manner they got a luncheon ― how quickly! ― of fresh eels, & wonderful eggs & bacon & Ithaca wine, all which I enjoyed thoroughly. It was odd to hear Antonio Ἀντίοχος ― (he introduced “Mrs. Antioch” ―) talk of Amherst Island & other places ― for he has travelled greatly. ― A pleasant hour. Left them at 2. P.M., and A. came with me as far as S. Andrea, where I drew: ― but no hasty penciling can give an idea of the infinite arch=arm=twining of myriad olive branches. The gray twinkling foliage, & the bright white church seen through all. So, at 2.45, I go on towards Μαστωρὰτικα. Again, the air here, how healthy & delightful! ― High road. Long pull up. Stony hot. At Μαστωρὰτικα, turned downwards to the left, & after a long bit of[7] bad road or lanes, arrived about 4 at Longone.[8] This place might possibly be drawn from some spot above, but there is nothing characteristic in its few houses & port. Ὃμως,[9] here I met Dickenson & Balbi, amiably waiting my arrival.

Agreed I could not draw, so we walked up ― passing some of the finest old olives I have seen in Paxò, to the great Tank of Τζίλια ― & at 4.45 ― am sitting there ― water drinking, & having searched for the smallest visible Cypresses among the many growing round. Children are singing { “Ἐλᾶτε νὰ ἀκούσατε / Τὰ δῶδεκα Εὐαγγελλίστα.”[10]

Up hill, by finer olives & winding broad road, with views of the Albanian Coast ― to Φοντάνα, & now above that, at 6, are resting for a bit. Very grand stones around, & squills. ― So, joining the δημόσιος δρόμος at Καραλάμπος ― down to Γαίο ― till, lingering on the Quay, watching disembarked sheep Murrray plucked me forth to dinner. Adaptable we are, in these days. Afterwards, came Dickenson; talk of America & N. Zealand, poor M. seldom joining, but now & then only. A kindly heart ― sadly wasted. He says he will live at Λάκκα if we Ἂγγλοι[11] go. No boat has come, & no George.

Bed at 9.20.


[1] St. Charalampus (NB).

[2] Proestos, but he wasn’t there. Nina adds: “During the Ottoman Rule,  the proestos, the elder of the village, was a member of the local administration, the head of a non-Muslim community. Here I suppose Lear means the head of the village.”

[3] House of the Greeks (NB).

[4] The area in Liguria that Lear had visited in 1860.

[5] Public road (NB).

[6] Lear leaves a blank, probably intending to insert the name of a plant he does not know.

[7] The remaining part of the entry is on the previous page, for 8 April, preceded by: “Thursday 9th April continued.”

[8] Λόγγος, I suppose.

[9] But (NB).

[10] Come hear | The 12 Gospels (should read Ευαγγέλια). The invaluable Nina explains: “Twelve Gospels is  what we call the evening service of Holy Thursday, because the entire account of Christ’s betrayal and crucifixion is read from all four gospels, divided into twelve readings.”

[11] Englishmen (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Wednesday, 8 April 1863

X2. Yet rose at 5. Calm & lovely morning, & was out at 5.40. ―after coffee. ― Drew till 10, at the end of the harbor, bright & quiet: & again, nearer the Residency. At 11, Ἒπαυσα.[1] Just as I returned, saw, Capt. M. going off in his boat to Antipaxo: ― he called to me, asking if I wanted anything &c. ― How strange a life he leads! & what will he do if the Islands are going up? At 11.30. went to see Dickenson, in neat [soldier] rooms, hung round with skins of vast seals. Here I made a pap of Παξὸς ― from his, & came away about 1. a most pleasant fellow. At 1.30 dined ― solo. Sebastiano ― (“sono nato in Corfu, ma son Latino”[2] ―) living me a better dinner than is requie for happiness. The blue bright calm of the South gives me that. At 3.30 I am going out. (Murray’s religious books!) Saw Sebastiano the servant, who has served many English families: he says 2 Corfù boats have just come, ― 2 [more] expected. Walked round the harbour or quay to the point ― how lovely the air is here! ― & now, 4. P.M. am going to Βελιανιτάτικα.[3] A sorto f perpetual “mountain air” feeling is here ― tho’ one don’t ascend. ― Now ― 4.20. walking up Βελανιτάτικα road. Boy carrying big stone: all labour here expensive. Material only plentiful, ― stone. Everybody salutes. Fig trees not out yet, wh. would greatly improve the scenery. Endless pale-blue gray rox, & asphodel, & long-armed olives. Presently road ceases; ― workmen ― road makers &c. No costume. Take little boy to shew way & arrive at Βελανιτάτικα, where I sit to draw. Much fun with the children, one especially who corrects my Greek. Priest says nearly all the families just hereabouts came from Epirus: 5 from Parga. 1 Suli. Nicer people as to manner I never saw. As I wrote down something, little boy shrieked out when I put a περισπώμενον before a μακρόν.[4] Laughter.

Go on, at 6, with Περικλής Βοϊκόν to Ἂγιος Προφήτης Ἐλίας,[5] & then, giving him 3d. ― with wh. he was pleased, got down by the ever dim veiled olive roads to Γαίο by 7. Met Murray’s servant, who says Dr. & Mrs. Innes are come in a yacht. ― At 7.30 ― go out ― having washed ― to find Dickinson. Pleasant days! ― “Οἱ δρόμοι εἶναι πολὺ ἀνώμαλοι ἐδῶ”[6] ―― said one of those children. ― Sate with Dickenson, (who, on account of the arrival of Dr. I. ― cannot now go with me tomorrow,) & Balbi ― till 9.30. ― Bed, 10.15.

(campaniles of Παξῶ.)


[1] Stopped (NB).

[2] I was born in Corfu, but I am a Latin.

[3] Vellianitatika, in the south of the Island.

[4] Circumflex before a long

[5] [With] Perikles Voikos to Agios Profitis Elias.

[6] The roads are very rough here (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Tuesday, 7 April 1863

Views in the Seven Ionian Islands, no. 18.

Views in the Seven Ionian Islands, no. 18.

Rose at 5. Windy ―but it cleared. Kindly Murray would get eggs ― &c. & so, by 6, Dickenson, who had come by 5.30, amiably offering to lionize me about the Island all day ― set off with me.

Through the ascending road ― ever below the long thin armed thin=leaved Olives: ― past little groups [sic] of houses half hidden ― & many churches, ― & thus to ˆ[beyond] Α. Καραλάμπος to a view of great extent & grandeur. Thence, ―diving into stony pathis & hollows to the village of Boikálika, close below which is a very grand scene of cliffs ― something like the chalk front rocks of Beachy Head, only at the end of a bay. [From Ρωμῆτι D. & I saw a brig going near the rocks ― & it was soon behind them. 2 hours later we heard she had gone down.][1]

Hither come seals, but very shy ― dwelling in caves. ― At 9 we came down to the shore by zigzags ― a fountain ― (ὀνομάζεται ὁ τόπος οὒτος “Ρωμήτι”[2] ―) where were quiet timid Παξιότισσαι[3] ― washing ―[.] Here Dickinson & I lunched on eggs ― bread & wine in the shade, by the Tank, (These Tanks are the great boons of Paxõ, wh. is very destitute of water, ―below the great pale tawny & white cliff ― high lowering over the grape=purple water, beneath which are spots of dazzling emerald blue & white, & scattered rocks. Far from on high descends a vast buttress of rock ˇ[from] the blue sky ―― covered with innumerable patches of shrub, clothing the cliff or leaving its wrinkled bare gray sides open ― down to the dark mottled water. At 10.15. we left, not without the women begging that the road might be mended (in a place fallen through,) & a roof put on the tank against heat or rain. Goats & Kids, bleat from the high cliff crags, & as we gu up the opposite side of the hill, innumerable groups of pin=like little cyplesses are scattered among the dry gray rox, the only vegetable being the tufts of Πρινάρι κ Σχίνος,[4] & higher up, scattered olives.

Along a village called Γραμματικάικα, & up to a stony point whence all Corfu is seen ― all the well known hills from Salvador to Capo Bianco. ― Drew calmly till 12, & left, very pleasant. A little farther to the caves of Γραμματικὸ, which we looked down on dizzily from the edge of the cliffs where we stood: ― a most awful precipice! ― wrinkled ― huge ― formless ― thousand shelved & ledged ― scattered shrubs on its Titan sides. Column furrow channels ot its base ― from the powdered summit beyond ― to the far wide hepatica coloured deep blue sea, darkening into black below the cliffs, & black green near the strange opening of the Seal cave. Beyond, far down, in the long rock, where in summer the seals sport.

Off at 12.35 ― (cottages, beautifully built with natural squared stones,) & down by similar stony-step lanes, to the Cathedral of the Island ― Παπαδῆ Γραμματιαΐκα: ― a very beautiful Campanile[5] & roof gleaming thro’ the trees. Foreground of Fern & Squills. Far off is Parga, & a part of Suli plainly seen. Amiable Dickenson sat quietly watching my sketch [Cypresses without end may be added to the Cathedral Drawing.][6] to be finished, & at 2.30 ― we passed on.

At 3 ― 3.30 ― we reached Fontana, but I could not draw anything there, tho’ it is one of the largest villages ― so bewildered are the houses by olives. We met the Bishop ― a rustic man. Then we walked by beautiful rugged paths, overlooking the channel & Albanian hills, & by 4 were at Καραλάμπος church,[7] above which I drew again till 5. By 6, we reached Γάιο ― a very happy day. But it was very chilly ― nay ― cold. At 6.30 ― Murray called out “never mind the white tie!” ―― so I went to dinner; where also was Dickensons[.]

Capital good dinner ― & afterwards smoking & cup, but moderately. Bed at 9.30 ― weary rather, & with indigestion.

[1] Added at the end of the entry.

[2] The name of this place is “Romiti” (NB).

[3] Women of Paxos (NB).

[4] kermes oak and sedges (NB).

[5] Bell tower.

[6] Added in a blank space in the previous page for 5 April.

[7] The church of St Charalampus (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Monday, 6 April 1863

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Gaois, Paxos, 1863. Related to Plate 18 of Views in the Seven Ionian Islands.

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Gaios, Paxos, 1863. Related to Plate 18 of Views in the Seven Ionian Islands.

Slept perfectly well. M. called me at 5. Grand red sky & dark olives.

Coffee, & out before 6. Sun rose, 5.50. Drew the port, by the seaside. Great naked slabs of rock. Twisted olives. Asphodels & lambs. Asphodels also by the edge of the sea wall. Mountains of Albania clear & fine, but lines not so good as from Corfû. Quiet & few people. Drew till 9.30. Then decided to go to the upper view & draw it. But it was awful work to find the spot of yesterday, & I had to get over some 40 walls to reach any good place.

“Hard work for those” ―― However , at last, I got a place on a wall, & drew till noon, & then descended again, ― walking slowly back by 1. P.M. Found that the kind Murray had expected me back to breakfast, & had waited. At 1.45. dinner ― immensely nice, Ithaca wine=cup ― of which, φαινεταί με[1] ― I drank too much. However, I was all right by 5, & walked with M. to the other side of the Island. (the air is delightful here.) where is a grand rocky bay scene. The immense dryness & stoniness of this place is one of its characteristics; & the vast veil of the olive-foliage in which one moves: the villages not being discernible till one reaches them, ― being groups of houses from 3 to 10 in number, low, & overhung by the veil of olives ― their long straggling web-like branches forming an universal Network on all sides. People amiable & quiet. Home by 7. Sate talking till 9. Bed.

Why is the sea of Algiers like goatskins? ―

Because it is full of coarse-hairs.

[1] I think (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Sunday, 5 April 1863

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Paxos. 5 or 6 April 1863.

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Paxos. 5 or 6 April 1863.

Lovely weather ― pure air.

Rose at 7.30 ― from my queer yet clean crib ― (he makes all his furniture himself!) Unpacked & packed certain roba.

Breakfast 8.30. very pleasant. Walk ― solo ― along the quay & onward, & various trial sketches ― & at 11 or 12 went to the Island & Fort.

From 12.30 to 2, walked with Murray, who is good & gentlemanly: he endeavoured to show me a higher spot of ground from which the whole Port of Παξῶ is seen. ― 2 ― to 2.45 talk & repoge. (The harbor views of Παξός are remarkable for their quiet bright unity, & for a combination of light & shade which compensates for an absence of beauty in form ― architecture &c. One of these Harbour views I must select as that most characteristic of the Island. That which I saw from the hill above is so like Manducchio or Govino, that I do not think I can shoes it. ― At 3 came Mr. Dickenson ― Lieut. of the 4th ― commending here the small detachment of soldiers: a modest, quiet, nice fellow.

Dinner good & pleasant ― “cup” ditto, & pipes & wine: ― till nearly 5, when we all set out to walk /tho I had had no idea that Capt. Murray was a walked.)

The character of what I saw was utter gray limestone like parts of Malta, or Tivoli ― but with endless filmy olives. ― Villages ― διεσπαρμισμένα χώρια[1] ― hidden or half-hidden in the veil of olive growth: higher Ἅγιος Καραλάμπος, whence was great colour & beauty of olive=sea vegetation ― little of form. I saw Capt. M. was tired, so proposed going back. He is so unselfish & amiable it is not easy to manage well with him. After returning ― talk, wine & cup, & pipes ― till 9. when ― bed.

A very pleasant white day.


(Remarks on sketches of the 5th. Difficulty of making Paxo picturesque[,] it reminds me of a Cornwall or Devon Cove without its picturesque houses[.] Great quiet is its characteristic. Its formal new-looking houses & rows of windows are hard to do. Civil folks. Break makers. Gull’s screams.

Joannina pass, & Parga seen. ― Clouds & effects ― snugness of [Kendenu].

Olive foliage meager browner: branches long straggling. Fine cliff scenes in Paxo[.]

Why, if mules love their drivers, can they replace them by weeping?
Because all their tears are Muley-teers.

[1] Scattered villages (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Saturday, 4 April 1863

Very lovely all day. Καραλάμπι is still somewhat better, & I think he may get well, perhaps. But Giorgio is to come after me by the following Steamer.

Paid Paramythiotti 20£ ― for 4 months rent, up to August 6 ―. Got straps ― odds & ends ― & finished all packing. Lunched with the kind good Boyds, ― & on coming home found letters from Lady Waldegrave ― (C.F. has the measles but is recovering,) ― Mrs. Spencer-Robinson ― (Sir J. Louis is dying,) & W. Nevill. ― Dined at 6 ― & at 8 went with Giorgio aboard the Bosphoro steamer, ― where he left me. There were but few passengers, & the deck was most pleasant, for the bright full moon showed every bit of Corfu-land ― & all the well-known hills. Sea smooth as glass ― well for me, for I find the steamers never go into Paxo at all, & often no communication is possible. Off Lefchimo light ― (we started at 10 ―) by 11.30 ― & Capo Bianco by Midnight,

5th April. Easter Sunday. 1863

& by 1.45. A.M. ― ˇ[3 hours & 45 min. from Corfu.] we were off Paxo ― a very shor voyage they said. Murray had sent his man & a boat ― ˇ[the moon shining bright as day, ――] & I was soon pulled into the little port which looked sparkly & bright & ˇ[very pretty] quiet in the moonlight=silver & black shade. Capt. M. was up ― & all good nature, but ― I forbode future fleas ― 2 days (Mope & brooms,) & that workshop!!! ―― Wine & water, & bed ― at 2.20 ― in a clean small room, bed & chairs &c. ― all made by Murray himself. ― Bother of uncording & unstrapping χωρὶς ὑπηρέτην.[1] Slept well.


In the morning I had got odds & ends, & had paid Paramythiotti 20£. Lunched at the good Boyds ― & dined at 6.

Letters from Lady W. ― C.F. has measles. ― from Mrs. Robinson & W. Nevill.

[1] Without a servant (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Friday, 3 April 1863

Clearer & lovelier.

Fruit Trees, 3 April 1863. Yale Center for British Art.

Edward Lear, Fruit Trees, 3 April 1863. Yale Center for British Art.

G. who sleeps at home now ― came at 5.30, poor little Καραλάμπι remains the same, but is not worse. ― Went at 8 to the Βασιλακη Garden & drew oranges ― returning by 11. Found a letter, asking me to dine at the Palace ― so ― after taking my ticket to Παξός ― I went at 1.30 & lunched with Captn. Phillipps of the 6th & dawdled afterwards till 3.30. ― then I walked by the Parga road ― & never saw Corfu more beautiful: a sort of plum=lilac hue comes over Salvador & the mountains ― a powdery opal purple glory ― & the snow is greater in quantity than is usual at this season. At 6. went Lady Woolff ― Lady W. & Φοφφy: ― how foreign the elements! ―――――――――

We were all sunshine. Sir H. came in ― & says that the Islands will be ceded immediately. Also I met Οἰκονόμος, who said, the annexation “κρούει εἰς τὰς θύρας.”[1] Home, nearly at 7 ― dressed ― & to the Palace.


Ἠξεύρω πολλά πράγματα[2] ― but it is wise to be thought a fool.

Baring I like less than I do Strahan.

Καραλάμπι is a little better.


[1] Is knocking at the door (NB).

[2] I know a lot of things (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]


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Thursday, 2 April 1863

Quite brilliant & lovely ― all day.


Slept ill all night: & could not rise.

Γεώργιος came in after 6. Nicolo recovers ― but Καραλάμπι is very ill. Those dreadful 2 swellings on the neck! I think he may not live. G. is quiet ― & says “Bisogna guardare[1] [& ―]

Πρέπει να κυττάζωμεν ταῦτα τὰ πραγματα (ἣ συμβαντα) ὣς Θέλημα τοῦ Θεοῦ.[2]

Went to Taylors ― walked a bit, casually, with Strahan, & paid Carters & Page’s bills. ― Got cash for cheques at Bank. (where Andrew Longhman told me that the brother of the Princess of Wales is really elected K. of Greece.) & returned home for breakfast at 11.30. At 12.30. Drew Salvador with boats from Fort Neuf ― till 5.

At 5.30 walked ― by Καστράδες ― & saw Βασίλια the Elder ― good woman indeed!! ― & young Nicolo, who is nearly well. But poor little intelligent Καραλάμπι I fear grows worse. I told good old Βασίλια that Giorgio was to stay. [“]Καλῶς, εὐχαριστήσις, Ἁφέντι μου!”[3] said she ― εἶμαι, ἀληθεια, μοναχὴ, καὶ ὁ Σπίρο εἶναι Ὸξο.”[4] ―

Went up to Βασίλια’s house ― once Cortazzi & with Nicoλa B. walked up & down. Certainly a Paradise.

Returned to dine at 7. but sent poor Giorgio away at 8.30. Penned out somewhat.


[1] It is to be seen.

[2] We have to regard these things (or events) as God’s will (NB).

[3] Good, thank you, Master (NB).

[4] I am truly alone, and Spiro is out (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Wednesday, 1 April 1863

Fine ― but warm, & scirocco mist. A storm from 11 to 12. Rest of the day clear & lovely.

Set off by 6.30 with G. to Κυνοπιάστες ― very warm. ― Drew there till 12 ― when it couded, & rained hard ― a storm, but we got shelter in a good natural peasant’s house, his name “Stellios.” At 1 ― had my lunch ― & from 2 to 4.30. sate about, drawing; or walked about.

We then crossed the valley to the new Ψοροροῦς[1] road, & went all its length to the village. Nothing can be prettier or nicer than those houses & gardens ― balconies ― &c. ― & the lovely view beyond. Of a new church ― I said to 3 women carrying water ― “Εἲναι ὠραῖα ἡ ἐκκλησία σου[2] ―” To which one ― spokeswoman said ― “Ἀλήθεια λέγεις: εἲναι εὒμορφη.”[3]

The wonderful varied beauty of this garden island is undoubtedly delightful. ― We came home by the road ― below Virõ, & so by 7. to G.’s huse in Kastrades ― & I waited for him, till he came out. Alas! little Καραλάμπι is worse. The complaint, (this awful fever) has attacked his throat, & leeches are ordered: Poor G. ― as he says ― it is indeed “duro”[4] to bring up children, always expecting their death.

Karalambi is at present strong & well: but it remains to be seen if health prevents the approach of the pestilence, for such it really is now in Corfu. So by 7.30 ― or later, I reached home, & (as usual) found a good cold dinner of lamb & salad, & G. would get some hot potatoes.

But I thought it better that he should sleep at home, rather than have such constant wear & tear of walking. So he is gone.

[1] He means the village Ψωραροί, named today Agios Prokopios (NB).

[2] You have a beautiful Church (NB).

[3] You are right: it is beautiful (NB).

[4] Hard.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry