Rose at 5. Coffee 5.30. A horrid night, but somehow I do not get worse, & we are ready to start at 5.50. ― Rocky hill sides, & paths winding among the usual Cistus & Σκινος are the order of the day. Ups & downs ― & about 7 we near the great rocks of the narrowing Λευκάδα promontory. Lower down, we come to gaps, whence, looking over, the cliffs are vastly fine, ― dark gray, & perpendicular from the black water, edged with foam, tho’ the sea is calm. 5 ordinary large vultures sate on a ridge of the highest edge. By 7.30, I was at the top of the highest cliffs, where there are remains of a temple ― to the east, the cliff covered with wild cedar, Πρινὰρι, &c. ― slopes to the sea. Ithaca & Κεφαλόνια seem close by, & 3 steamers are immediately below. ― Farther on is the last cliff ― the real Salto di Saffo, where the terraces & portions of wall of a large Temple still exist, ― the ground covered with innumerable bits of pottery &c. An old man of 85, who died not long ago ― (says Παπᾶς Παγκρατιον,) remembered the Temple several feet high ― with some columns standing, but the stones were displaced & rolled to the sea down the hill, & taken for building elsewhere. Piles of stones are still there ― arranged for this process. What must this spot have been when both Temples stood? Returned slowly ― a painful path ― by 11. (on the lower rocks were 2 white-headed sea eagles. At the Monastery we find Μάρκος Ρομπώτης; He says, 3 or more deputies have left Athens to bring the Danish prince over. Παγκρὰτιον is a capital kind man. He says “D’Everton, had he been governor in those times, would never have permitted “τοσα πολύτιμα πράγματα” to be lost in the sea, whereby I thought he meant Sappho ― but he meant the stones of the Temple.
The indefatigable George turned out a dish of Eggs, & I hope went to sleep: I am afraid lest this journey tire him too much. With me lunched ὁ Κ.Μ. Ρομπώτης, ― a well-enough sort of youth, but I had greatly preferred the company of Π. Παγκράτιον, to whom, to retire altogether ― this new comer seems to have been a signal.* ― At 1. I shut up to repose, having made a little memorandum of the queer little room & small church.
I fear now, the Παπᾶς will not go back with me: ― ὅμως, tomorrow, let us hope to get out of the way of bores. How glad I am the ‘Μάρκος’ did not turn up before! ― At 2 ― I call the presiding deities. Κοσταντὶ ― the good honest mule driver who gives no trouble & is always ready & obliging ― & Andrέα the policeman. And I find out Παγκράτιος, & give him a good penholder, & some steel pens, having nothing better to offer him for what has been real kindness. ‘It is not new’ said I ― ‘& I hope to send you a better.’ ― “Δὲν πειράζει” is the answer ― “δὲν θὰ σᾶς λησμονησω.” I also got ― with difficulty ― the little woman who laid the cloth & who sighed fearfully, ― to take 2/― but only with G.’s despotic aid, as she said Παπας Π. Would be θυμωμένος.
I was sorry to leave Παπᾶς Π. ― So at 2 P.M. we set off ― Mr. Μ. Ρομπώτι on a gray mule, Andrea & the other policeman ― (he had come from Athaní yesterday with us ―) Κοσταντί ― & 2 servants of Μ. Ρομπώτης. The only variety was in gathering clouds, thunder also ― & rain at sea. Μάρκος kept shooting right & left ― G. & I steadily walking on. G. suddenly asked ― “if that Lady” [(]meaning Sappho ―) [“]meant to drown herself, why did she take the trouble to go quite to the end of the promontory, when there were so many points nearer ― unless indeed she came in a boat to the point.” ― (Leaving the Monastery of Α. Νικόλα was a sort of grief to me ― Π. Παγκρατιος shook hands ὥς Ἄγγλος, & seeing clouds ― said ― “Ἐπιθυμῶ να ἢθελε βρέξει, μόνον νὰ σὲ κάμνη να μείνης ἐδῶ.”)
However, at 4 ― or 4.30 it did begin to rain, but we did not get wet, & reached Romboti’s house tolerably dry. Every care was taken to give me all I wanted; & the evening passed al solito: wealthy fork ― plate & crockery &c. Dinner too heavy ― soup ― 3 courses of fowl ― boiled stewed & roast, & 9 pigeons! Almond for desert, & the 23 years old wine was delicious! Young Ρομπώτης was at school in Corfû, & knew Ιάννι Κοκάλι. “Φίλος μου ἧτον” ― & they had “assai amore.” Μάρκος[,] furiously English & friendly ― but then I come from the Τοποτηρητῆς. || Said Μάρκος, Μιάν ἡμέραν, μ’ εἲπε ὁ Ιάννης Κοκάλι ― βέβαιος καὶ ἀληθῶς εἶσαι ωραῖος νέος! ― καὶ άποκρίθην ― σ’ εὐχαριστῶ! φίλε μου! (caro mio.)
|| My last words to Παγκράτιος were, “Εὰν ποτὲ εὐρίσκης τὰ σκουλαρίκια τῆς Βασιλίσσης ποῦ ἒκαμε τὸ πύδημα, φυλαξέτα καλὰ διὰ ἐμέ!” Whereat I left him holding his sides.
 Kermes oak.
 Markos Rombotis.
 So many precious things (NB).
 The note corresponding to this asterisk should be the one at the end of the previous page, for 20 April: “*Note, July 5. ― I heard afterwards that old Ρομπώτης & the priest are on ill terms. ― How fast the Priest walked!! ―”
 It doesn’t matter (NB).
 I shall not forget you (NB).
 Angry (NB).
 Like an Englishman (NB).
 I wish it would rain, just so you would be forced to stay (NB).
 He was my friend (NB).
 Much love.
 Deputy (? NB).
 One day, Ioannis Kokalis said to me ― you are surely and truly a handsome young man! ― and I responded ― thank you! my friend (NB).
 My dear.
 If you ever find the earrings of the Queen who jumped, keep them safe for me! (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]