6.30. Dressed & ready. But we shall hardly be off just yet. ― The owl still cries. ― There is a somewhat beautiful, ― now that the sun is rising on the bare Leucadean Cape, so long drawn out as a wall to the still bay ―― even here. Thank God, I feel pretty well this morning, & fleapowder preserved out sight. Yet I don’t like to look forward to the work of the day ― as it must needs be hard. We start at 7.45 ― along the shore ― passing the bridge built by the Baron ― when G. inopportunely begins to talk of the “Ponte del Diavolo” at Bagni di Lucca, ― which leads the Policeman to look anxious & interrogative, & me to explain. (Baron D’E. staid 6 months here! ― to carry out this bridge, before the building of wh. ― all communication was often interrupted by the torrents from Σλαυροτὰ. ― Steep hill of the west side of the plain: & many cattle goats & sheep ― peasants ever picturesque. Some olives, here & there. I drew Ithaca, & again higher up, with the hill of Βασιλικῆ & its port. Above the village of Α. Πέτρος we turn off ― at 6.50 ― there are several good houses in this large village ― & at 6.45. ascend the very steep hill above it, ― the top of wh. we reach at 8.20. The view Eastward must be fine in clear weather ―unluckily it is all dim & blotted out & only the Islands appear ― the Ἐχίναδες: I am not in luck as to clear distances, ― on the west only sea is visible. The aspect of nature here, 8.30, is dry yellow & bare. 8.45. Immense clear hills, all vine planted but as yet with no green leaf out. Sharp & steep descent again, & reach Αθάνι by 9.15. (Three hours and a half from Βασιλικῆ ― they said six.) Draw the village, wh. is not very hideaous, ― & lies between the hills I have just crossed ― i.e. those forming the west side of the island: ― then two ridges enclose a narrow valley ― & their sides are all vineyards up to a gt. height. At 10, go to the house of Τιμωθεὺς Ρομπώτης, ― to whom I had been strongly recommended by Baron D’E. ―: he is the wealthy Contadino of these parts & has a house also at Α. Πέτρος. Here I am received kindly ― the mother of the family a fine & nice woman. Large airy rooms ― & I am put into one small & clean where are sophas & rest. Comes a διδάσκαλος & stares at me ― till at 10.10 I am left alone. At 11.30 ― the Padrone Ρομπώτης then comes ―a rough hearty peasant ― & we talk ― he only understands Greek. I tell him of Elder wine ― for there are many Elder trees; Ἀφροξυλιὰ ― or Ἀφροξελαιὲς ―hard by. I promise to send him a receipt for the wine. Long talk & Lunch with the Padrone & Διδάσκαλος. Good bread & wine: some, 23 years old magnificent. Left at 1.30 ― & off by the road, being soon overtaken by the priest, Ηγούμενος of the Μοναστήριον of Α. Νικόλα ― or Νιερὰ: a very hearty prepossessing fellow ― who shook hands like an Englishman.|| We have walked fast, & I am now writing on the still hill side, on the way to Sappho’s leap. Very Greek all the scene ― Arbutus ― Σκίνος ― Πρίναρι ― myrtle ― blooming Cistus & scores of other flowers: the vast tranquil moveless sea to the South & West ― the blue sky above ― nothing more. “Hateful is te dark blue sky.” ― || Always walking by the hill side ― the west wall of the promontory forming one side of the bay of Βασιλικῆ ― far above the vast sea. The priest sometimes going in for abuse of the natives, & shewing me a heap of stones by pathside where 2 sons killed their father ― for which alquanto I snubbed him, but needlessly methinx. Goats begin to appear ― standing as is their wont, on points of rock ― sneezing. At 4.30 ― after passing a small cultivated level, where were ˇ[a few] horses & sheep, we arrive at the Monastery ― a lonely small poor place enough, but with a clean outer room made ˇ[all] ready. All the buildings are enclosed in a wall. Just above this wild little place, the views of Ithaca are beautiful. Men of the Monastery come & say, 5 wolves came down last night, & tho’ the dogs gave alarm, they killed 3 goats & 2 kids before the people could get out. (Ὁ Ἄγιος Νικόλαος ― Ὁ Ἡγούμενος ― Παγαράτιος.) I drew Ithaca, which appears quite close, before I went to the minute chambre, where I got arranged. The Παπὰς killed a kid, & supper was to take place in my room. New moon & star ― above the little church. Mass in the church. Supper, dish of liver &c. & toast kid ― beans ― cheese, & wine. ― of which I ate sparingly ―but taking one mouthful of new cheese upset me in toto, & at 8.30 ― when Παπας Πανκράτιος & G. had gone ― “sick [transit.” Odd enough ― & all the more that I have been so well all day. ―
No sleep all night ― or little: alarm of Walves, & constant row of dogs ― horses &c. &c.
*Note, July 5. ― I heard afterwards that old Ρομπώτης & the priest are on ill terms. ― How fast the Priest walked!! ―
 Σταυρωτά, Stavrota, mountains at Lefkada (NB).
 Something seems to be wrong with the times given in the first part of the entry.
 Echinades, a group of islands (NB).
 Should be Ρομποτής, Timotheus Rombotis (NB).
 Elderberry ― or elderberries (NB).
 Terebinth ― kermes oak (NB).
 “Hateful is the dark-blue sky / Vaulted o’er the dark-blue sea.” (Tennyson, The Lotus –Eaters, iv).
 St. Nicolas, the Abbot, Pangratios (the priest’s name) (NB).
 Father, priest here (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]