All the rest of the morning’s walk was nil, ― save some commonplace olive & cypress views below Κονδάρινα. At this place, Βασιλικῆ, so reputed to be called along of Ἀρτημίσια having died there ― (& the Baron mysteriously hints at knowing where her tomb is!) ― I come to the house of the Οίκονόμος or Deputy, & rest ― arriving at 10 ― till noon. Μεταξὰ is the name. There are heaps of children & alrready I have seen 4 [B] flats. At 12.30. I join the family party of Mr. Λεόνιδα Μεταξὰ & “partake” of some Caddy broth & salt cheese: they seem a kindly good filthy lot as poor Lady Carmichael used to say. At 1. went out with G. & the Argus like Ανδρέα Χωρογύλακος ― & drew in 2 places ― not well ― till 4.15. I shall try my utmost to sleep at S. Nicolo tomorrow, ― get to Sappho’s leap on Tuesday ― & return to Athani that night to sleep ― if possible to reach Sta. Maura on Wednesday evening. ― I cannot remember ever to have made so empty a journey as this Sta. Maura interior=giro ― except perhaps the first of my Thessalian tours. But thanks to God for better “aspirations” I am assuredly far less tired that I should have been some years back. ||
|| Late ― drawing & dawdling till 5.30: the shadows ― few as they necessarily are owing to the flat nature of Stαυροτὰ are better towards sunset, & I hardly think I made the best of the view, ― there was not place ― (as usual ―) to sit where I could see best, & after G. went (to get some supper for me,) the people about me hammered stones & fidgeted. (Two were from Ithaca, their boat being below in the deadly quiet port: & they want me to sail with them ― but that can’t be, tho’ it was some time my intention to cross from here.)
Mr. Μεταξὰ came later & walked with me on the beach ― & to see some “Hellenic” ruins, which turn out to be Roman baths or somewhat later. M. says he has “served” Govt. 20 years or more: he was Sanita agent at Sta. Maura ― but was moved here to the Deputato-ship ― a rather better post: now, however he says ― they have united to that the Sanita post here ― much more work & no more pay & 7 children! He evidently groans at the idea of the change coming ― not knowing what may take place. But says little ― except praise of the Baron ― which is to be supposed. The plain & mountain are very fine from the end of the beach, but it was too late to draw: ― altogether there is a dreamy lofty sort of melancholy about Βασιλικῆ. Came back at 6, & washed, & wait for the Suliot’s dinner till 6.30. Which was as good as if G. had not been walking all day with my heavy folio ― Irish stew & rice soup.
A melancholy oriol cries ever. Sate talking with the Μεταξὰς till 8.30. ― Bed by 9.
((July 5) I found ˇ[some days later] by oversight left in the Barons W.C. at the Residency, the reports of my progress from Metaξὰ ―― very concise & doubtless ordered strictly.)
 Terebinth (NB)
 Possibly Μαραντοχώρι, Marandochori (NB).
 Σύβρος, Sivros (NB).
 Possibly Κοντάραινα, Kondarena (NB).
 Artemisia of Caria (NB).
 Andrea the policeman (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]