Fine, but cloudy ― hot. ― but air is better than χθὲς. ― Slept pretty well, “pretty” well ― as Baron D’E. [was] to say. Rose at 5 ― & by a little before 6 we were off.
The old bewiggled Ἠγούμενος declared he would take nothing, but, τέλος πάντων, took 2/6. A sorry lot of folk. ― The Προεστὸς of Ἀλεξανδρος, for the love of the Baron, would come with me ― he was an awful bore ― as far as Πασᾶ Φοντανα. Horrible ugly valley & frightful roads. Less vines even than before: how bare & ugly are these hills!! ― reminding me of C. di Penne in the Abruzzi. ˇ[Hideously] [illegible], dry ― wrinkled, spasmy chasmy valley, full of ugly gullies. About 7. we left the road & went up to Π. Εὐαγγελίστα, Κοκκινεκκλησιά, a monastery like [Afiorgion], but there was a lively Ἠγούμενος, who was angry at my proposal to depart εὐθὺς: ― (for coffees & compliments spoil days.) So we left, but went sorry, & had to hark back till we got the right road again, & after that we [lifted] on the priest again, who had made a short cut. “ὣς ὂρνις διὰ μέσον τὸν ουρανὸν ―” said I. He gave me a bottle of wine, & after wholesale compliments, on again. Who can know what these people mean, if one travels with a policeman? ― We came at length, at 8 below high rocks to the left ― Σκάρος, to get out of this horrid upper level, & down to the plain of Ἐγγλιμενῶ, & see Πόρος, & Μαδουρί &c. &c. & a lot of the Isles of Greece. Heavy stony road as yet. Partridges call. ― gradually olives ˇ[thinly planted] begin, & we get to Fontana Pasha ― at 9. a very common orange garden, but wholly destitute of drawability: so I resolve to go on. And we go along the flat ground, by [some] ditches, & the torrent of Δημετζιάρη ― (which the Baron extolled, but I see nothing in at all,) & then by degrees ˇ[(at 11)] came to the head of the Port of Βλιχῶ ― where there are 2 or 3 dismal houses. We pass the best, & go on to the Govt. collector or what [not here], whose house is filthy, so I return to the other with a ˇ[shaded tiled] portico, ˇ[a malevolent pig] & the master, one Χριστὸς Παπακοστόπουλος makes me a mattress on tressels outside, & I get some lunch of cold meat, & very good wine.
The pale blue sea ― twinkling & rippling, of this pretty quiet dead port, is bright & pleasant, & so is the beautiful air, but the hills have mediocre forms ― & I can’t draw.
At 1.45. after really a pleasant 2 hours ― we start, ― I am to sleep at Barba Χριστὸς’s house: & at 2.30 we arrive at it, in Καταχώρι ―― alone ― detached: clean &c.: ― a café. & we sleep.
From the window where this large 2 pillow bed is, ― nought but an olive tree can be seen: but the branches & leaves of that are enough of beauty.
After some repoge & café ― riz & worked, ― the padrone having been immensely considerate of all matters. The head of Police in these parts came, & we all issued forth to see the town. Church, school, dogs, carpet-making, &c. &c. &c. ― & so after looking wise as long as I could, we all came back & sate in the padrone’s room ― where I talked bad Greek ― & “looked wise,” & examined the son ― Athanasius’s writing ― till 6.30, when, holding out no longer, I retired to write this.
I am better in health than yesterday, but have an ugly headache still. No pay is to be given here ― but I select pens & pencils. Report spoken of a kid having been killed for us. Asking about the Judas tree ― [“]δὲν φέρει καρποῦς” ― said one. ― “Λοιπόν, καλὴτερα νὰ τὸ κόψης εὐθὺς” said I ― whereat all the boys ran about shouting ― “Ἂς τὸ κόψαμὲν!”
Duplicate notes of Saturday. 18th
Packing to go at 5.45. Cloudy. How bare & ugly are the gt. mountains of this valley! Reminding me of those near C. di Penne in the N. Abruzzi. Hideously dry, withered wrinkled, chasmy, rocky valley ― gullies. Κοκκινεκκλησία ― priest ― lose way ― priest again. Open on the channel ― at 8 descend towards the sea. “Isles of Greece.” At 9, Pasã Fontana ― ἔτζι κ’ ἔτζι ― go on. plain of Ἐγγλιμενὸ. At Βλιχῶ by 11 ||
Down thro’ most ugly places & up to the convent of Κοκκινεκλησιά ― out of the way, at which I was wrath. The Ἡγούμενος wished me to stay, but I would not, so we came off leaving the track, again finding it, & falling in with the priest lower down. Travelling with a policeman, no one can tell if these people are really hospitable or not.We came at last to see the plain of Ἐγγλιμενὸ, & winding round the bay, through olives truly grown, & muddy ditches, crossing the torrent of Δημετζιάρη, & so by little & little to Βλιχῶ. A house, with a shady tiled portico & a prevalent pig. 2 or 3 houses farther on, where we stopped at the Deputator: but it was hot & filthy inside, ὅμως the Gent asked me to stay ― but I dare not throw away health, so came back to the first place, where a good Samaritan opened a Mattress on tressels in the Portico. The Gent came & gave me a Limonata: how dead a place! ― now, noon, I am happily eating lunch, ― so is the pig ― & the hens, & the cat: & the swallows are twittering. The pale blue sea of this closed port shimmers & popples, & the world is bright enough: but no forms other than of mediocrity are among those I see. The Mountn. of Scarus only above the plain of Ἐγγλιμενὸ ― might be drawable at early morn. Very good wine. Χριστὸς Παπακοστόπουλος ― conversation between the above named & myself, “assisted by” the Policeman & G., a subaltern, the very Hebrew like Eldest son of the Deputato. The air of this place is lovely. G. supposes we are to go to the house of Barba Χριστὸς, & I don’t think we could do better. He, like all the men here, looks like a woman in the handkerchief & long cloth dress. About 1. we start. I bored by the lot of folk. Ascent. At 2, I am sitting, G., policeman & Χριστὸς ― ahead. The whole port of Βλιχῶ is beneath, & in another light possibly drawable, at present ― impossible. At 2.30. ―house of Χριστὸς, & pretty scattered large village of Καταχῶρι. Apparently well-off place. ― At 3 ― going to sleep, ― by the many=light=& shadowed olives.
|| ― Supper ― gave Anastasius the pens ― & wrote. Eggs ― τεγαμισμὲνα ― & φασόλια ― excellent, & ditto κρασί. Clean cloth ― napkins ― “wealth” as Mrs Wynne used to say. Industry of Sta. Maureotes: always at work. (Industry of fleas alas, also, ― but the Fleapowder remedies that.) This house is wondrous clean in many things ― tho’ they use remiss in others. ― Bed at 9.30.
The last day I was at Sta. Maura, Χριστὸς Παπακοστόπουλος came to me in the greatest distress: ― his son had been taken off by the police ― according to him ― for no reason. Sir H.S. was in the residency ― & he had come to question. I could not interfere, but was grieved: it occurred to me ― was this owing to his having received a stranger? ― O Baron! ――― Note written July 5, 1863.
 Yesterday (NB).
 Anyway (NB).
 At once (NB).
 Like a bird through the skies (NB).
 Skaros, a mountain in Lefkada (NB).
 Or Μαδουρή, Madouri, a very small island across of Nydri, Lefkada, belonging to the Valaoritis family (NB).
 Δημοσάρη, Dimosari, a fall (NB).
 Owner of the house.
 Bears no fruit (NB).
 So, it’s better to cut it down promptly (NB).
 “Let’s cut it down!” (NB). The rest of this entry, including the note of 5 July, was written in the page for 16 April.
 Literally, “red Church,” a monastery in Lefkada (NB).
 Κάμπος Εγκλημένου, i.e. the plain of Eglimenos in Lefkada (NB).
 Βλυχό, Vlicho, a village (NB), see yesterday’s picture.
 Should be Παπακωστόπουλος: Christos Papakostopoulos (NB).
 Beans (NB).
 Wine (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]