Rose at 5 ― none the better for the air of Sta. Maura, nor for the dinner, lunch, & breakfast of yesterday. ― It was 7.30, before I got away, ― a mule & muleteer, ― G. & I, & a Policeman. ― along the road to beyond [Chicklamboo] church, after which we turned inward by a broad rising road ― winding above the gt. olive plain. The views hence are of the very best of the North of the island, but too cloudy to draw, so I wander on, ― & with weary steps too ― for I was not very well. & moreover the Policeman would go up difficult bypaths, & short cuts. At 9.30 we came to the top & the roads & scenery became atrocious. A great basin below high Mountains ― a little lake below ― & all the rest stone, worked out into vine terraces with admirable industry & ugly effect ― tho’ of course had the year been more advanced the vines would have been prettier. I & G. were both reminded of the 5 Terre country close to Spezzia. Neither the sight of the Sphakides nor of Καρυά ― (the largest village in the Island,) ― gave me the least wish to visit them: ― they are in 6 or 8 Maxalades or detached lots of houses, after the fashion of Greekdom in general, ― but the whole aspect of the great valley was hideously dry & frightful. Nevertheless there were two views rather grand & desert-like, but I could not draw owing to the clouded hills ― the former of which were hidden. The fatigue of the roads was great, but on passing the Monastery of Ἄ. Ιωάννης about 11.20 ― I decided not to stop there ― so we went on & reached the village of Ἀλέξανδρος & the Monty. of Α. Γεώργιος about 11.40. A poor place. an old [owl, or,] hawklike Ἠγούμενος ― with a wonderful head of hair ― & one blind Καλόγερος.
But there was a couple of clean rooms. Wine ― ἔτζι κ’ ἔτζι. coarse & black ― so I drank too much water ― & later ― had some cold mutton & onion, which last disagreed with me. So I went to lie down, feeling ill & feverish, ― & lo! XX4 ― after which I slept, & indeed at 4 rose better, though far from well. The policeman sticks to me as a burr ― evidently ordered so to do: but I believe there was no better mode of progress. Yet if I see nothing more beautiful than what I have seen today, I shall regret the journey. The small ˇ[level, or] comaparatively level where the villages of the 2nd district are, is somewhat less hideous than that of Καρυᾶ, yet wholly undrawable.
At 4.45 ― (the Policeman being asleep,[)] I & G. escaped, & began to go up the hill behind the monastery ― unluckily obliquely ― so we got never the nearer, ― but threaded the path among & over vast blocks of stone below the great hill of Scarni: at the top ― goats & a goatherd were there, we saw a bit of misty purple Etolia & the [gragoca] ― & returning killed a venomous snake. ― At the monastery ― the policeman wished to go up the high hill ― & I half began to do so ― but returned for it was too late.
Having worked, & written some of this, G. brought αὑγὰ τεγαμισμὲνα & riso al burro ― both good: he is a cheerful capital man. He says the “buco” when the priests eat is “un orrore ―” & the elder stirred up the tripe in water with his hand ― so that απ’ άσπρ’ ἒγινε μαῦρον ― so that G. declined the food. “Τὶ νέα ἀπ’ τό χώρι μας; [”] ― asked the priest of the Policeman. “Τίποτε ― βουνά xερὰ καὶ ἡσυχία.” ἀποκρίθηκε αὐτός.[”]
 Added in the previous page for 16 April.
 Abbot (NB).
 Monk (NB).
 Fried eggs (NB).
 Rice with butter.
 The hole where the priests eat is disgusting.
 It turned from white to black (NB).
 Any news from our village? (NB)
 “Nothing ― bare mountains and quiet”. he answered (NB).
[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]