Saturday, 11 April 1863

It is half past one[1] ― & the moon ― 4th quarter, is rising above dark clouds. I also rise ― awaiting the steamer. But alack! it does not come, & I am awaiting ― all packed & dressed ― & they think there is some mistake in the day ― for it is now 2.20 ― & no signal made.

The steamer should start on Friday night instead of the usual Saturday, because of the Greek Easter, ― to admit of the crew getting back to Corfu: but in these places of ἀνομαλα πανωκατόματα[2] ― who can say? ― Anyhow, it is a bore. (X3) Ὅμως[3] the Steamer was eventually signalled at 3.45, & I was hustled into a boat ― (leaving Sebastiano 2 dols. For himself.) We had to wait a long time by the Lighthouse ― but the sea was smooth, & at 4.40 I was on board. ― and there was the Suliot to my gt. pleasure. Little Καραλάμπος has recovered, thank God ― & Nicolo quite so. We were off by 5. It is now 7.15, & we are to arrive about 9. (M. was telling me Χθὲς[4] about Baron D’Evertons history. ˇ[― He was] selected by Sir H. Verney & another, I forget whom ― (Stuart Mackenzie?) to confirm the Duke of Lucca in what was believed to be[5] a tendency to Protestantism, he became his secretary, & was made Master of the House & a Baron. (Sebright is his name. D’Everton ― from his native place in Scotland) ― near Bamff, where he was brought up for the Church.) But finding that the Duke ― or his son ― led a very unsanctified life, he left him, & his prospects of life being thus unhooked, Sir H.V. ― & ――― got one Stuart Mackenzie, at the time Lord H. Com.: to appoint him Resident of Cephalonia, where he remained 7 or 8 years, & was moved by Sir H. Ward to Sta. Maura. ―― About 9 ― anchoring close to the fort ― we got off in the Sanità boat, & were tow’d up the canal. (Another boat took off the pilot & owners of the brig wh. was wrecked on the 7th & wh. we had seen from Ρωμῆτι: G. heard the pilot & captain quarrelling in the night, & the latter said ― not now, but later, I will find you out & kill you “wherever you may be.” ― G. said Pilot was pale & trembling, & wanted to come into our boat.) ― I remembered the kind Williams family. ― About 9.30. got to the Residency, & was most kindly welcomed by Baron D’E. ― who sent for G. & the Πραγμὰτα,[6] & soon gave me a breakfast. At 11, I arranged things in my room ― a large one & comfortable ― & slept till 1. Washed, & at 2 went out to Καλιγονι[7] with G. ― went all over it & drew once. The scenery is very beautiful (& the road by the vast olive groves leading thither particularly so,) but I could not find any point uniting the North view & the walls in one. Towards Κάλαμο ― eastward ― that part wh. I drew ― the lines are bery Greek & fine; but in truth I was very sleepy & could not work well. We returned by another road, stopping at a Spring ― Μεγάλη Βρύσις[8] ― & eating water cresses. The peasants here have a complete Greek-Epirote costume ― with handkerchiefs on their heads, & large Turkish braghe[9] ― so that both sexes look much alike. Walked thro’ the principal street of the town ― notably indifferent ugly, & very smelly. Along the Quay ―― whence the Arta & Pindus hills are glorious ― but clouded. ― To the Residency & my perfectly comfortable room: half ‘dressed’ ― & read a new pamphlet of Λανκαράτος[10] till 7.30 ― when came the Baron ― & dinner.

Dinner being ― soup ― fish ― Liver & bacon ― stuffed lamb ― roast fowl ― pudding ― jelly & custards ― cheese, & 4 sorts of wine, wh. the hospitable Baron apologized for!!! ― Enjoyed all greatly. (Of the Baron ― & the “art of governing” ― reserved thoughts.) Bye the bye, he is awfully Sabbatical, & don’t quite approve my sketching tomorrow evidently ― but, as I shall return by 10, I shall be vicious. Could not sit up beyond 10.30. ―

To “do” the rest of this island? ― It will be difficult.


[1] The entry begins in the page for 10 April.

[2] Irregular ups and downs (NB).

[3] But.

[4] Yesterday.

[5] From this point the entry is on the page for 11 April.

[6] Things (NB), what Lear often calls roba, his possessions.

[7] Probably Kalligoni, a village in Lefkada (NB).

[8] Both Κάλαμο above and Μεγάλη Βρύσις are places in Lefkada (NB).

[9] Breeches.

[10] Andreas Laskaratos, a well-known satirical poet and writer of the time (says wonderfully patient Nina).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry

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