Wednesday, 8 April 1863

X2. Yet rose at 5. Calm & lovely morning, & was out at 5.40. ―after coffee. ― Drew till 10, at the end of the harbor, bright & quiet: & again, nearer the Residency. At 11, Ἒπαυσα.[1] Just as I returned, saw, Capt. M. going off in his boat to Antipaxo: ― he called to me, asking if I wanted anything &c. ― How strange a life he leads! & what will he do if the Islands are going up? At 11.30. went to see Dickenson, in neat [soldier] rooms, hung round with skins of vast seals. Here I made a pap of Παξὸς ― from his, & came away about 1. a most pleasant fellow. At 1.30 dined ― solo. Sebastiano ― (“sono nato in Corfu, ma son Latino”[2] ―) living me a better dinner than is requie for happiness. The blue bright calm of the South gives me that. At 3.30 I am going out. (Murray’s religious books!) Saw Sebastiano the servant, who has served many English families: he says 2 Corfù boats have just come, ― 2 [more] expected. Walked round the harbour or quay to the point ― how lovely the air is here! ― & now, 4. P.M. am going to Βελιανιτάτικα.[3] A sorto f perpetual “mountain air” feeling is here ― tho’ one don’t ascend. ― Now ― 4.20. walking up Βελανιτάτικα road. Boy carrying big stone: all labour here expensive. Material only plentiful, ― stone. Everybody salutes. Fig trees not out yet, wh. would greatly improve the scenery. Endless pale-blue gray rox, & asphodel, & long-armed olives. Presently road ceases; ― workmen ― road makers &c. No costume. Take little boy to shew way & arrive at Βελανιτάτικα, where I sit to draw. Much fun with the children, one especially who corrects my Greek. Priest says nearly all the families just hereabouts came from Epirus: 5 from Parga. 1 Suli. Nicer people as to manner I never saw. As I wrote down something, little boy shrieked out when I put a περισπώμενον before a μακρόν.[4] Laughter.

Go on, at 6, with Περικλής Βοϊκόν to Ἂγιος Προφήτης Ἐλίας,[5] & then, giving him 3d. ― with wh. he was pleased, got down by the ever dim veiled olive roads to Γαίο by 7. Met Murray’s servant, who says Dr. & Mrs. Innes are come in a yacht. ― At 7.30 ― go out ― having washed ― to find Dickinson. Pleasant days! ― “Οἱ δρόμοι εἶναι πολὺ ἀνώμαλοι ἐδῶ”[6] ―― said one of those children. ― Sate with Dickenson, (who, on account of the arrival of Dr. I. ― cannot now go with me tomorrow,) & Balbi ― till 9.30. ― Bed, 10.15.

(campaniles of Παξῶ.)


[1] Stopped (NB).

[2] I was born in Corfu, but I am a Latin.

[3] Vellianitatika, in the south of the Island.

[4] Circumflex before a long

[5] [With] Perikles Voikos to Agios Profitis Elias.

[6] The roads are very rough here (NB).

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]


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Filed under 1863, Diary Entry

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