Sunday, 5 April 1863

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Paxos. 5 or 6 April 1863.

Edward Lear. View of the town and harbour, Paxos. 5 or 6 April 1863.

Lovely weather ― pure air.

Rose at 7.30 ― from my queer yet clean crib ― (he makes all his furniture himself!) Unpacked & packed certain roba.

Breakfast 8.30. very pleasant. Walk ― solo ― along the quay & onward, & various trial sketches ― & at 11 or 12 went to the Island & Fort.

From 12.30 to 2, walked with Murray, who is good & gentlemanly: he endeavoured to show me a higher spot of ground from which the whole Port of Παξῶ is seen. ― 2 ― to 2.45 talk & repoge. (The harbor views of Παξός are remarkable for their quiet bright unity, & for a combination of light & shade which compensates for an absence of beauty in form ― architecture &c. One of these Harbour views I must select as that most characteristic of the Island. That which I saw from the hill above is so like Manducchio or Govino, that I do not think I can shoes it. ― At 3 came Mr. Dickenson ― Lieut. of the 4th ― commending here the small detachment of soldiers: a modest, quiet, nice fellow.

Dinner good & pleasant ― “cup” ditto, & pipes & wine: ― till nearly 5, when we all set out to walk /tho I had had no idea that Capt. Murray was a walked.)

The character of what I saw was utter gray limestone like parts of Malta, or Tivoli ― but with endless filmy olives. ― Villages ― διεσπαρμισμένα χώρια[1] ― hidden or half-hidden in the veil of olive growth: higher Ἅγιος Καραλάμπος, whence was great colour & beauty of olive=sea vegetation ― little of form. I saw Capt. M. was tired, so proposed going back. He is so unselfish & amiable it is not easy to manage well with him. After returning ― talk, wine & cup, & pipes ― till 9. when ― bed.

A very pleasant white day.

―――――

(Remarks on sketches of the 5th. Difficulty of making Paxo picturesque[,] it reminds me of a Cornwall or Devon Cove without its picturesque houses[.] Great quiet is its characteristic. Its formal new-looking houses & rows of windows are hard to do. Civil folks. Break makers. Gull’s screams.

Joannina pass, & Parga seen. ― Clouds & effects ― snugness of [Kendenu].

Olive foliage meager browner: branches long straggling. Fine cliff scenes in Paxo[.]

Why, if mules love their drivers, can they replace them by weeping?
Because all their tears are Muley-teers.


[1] Scattered villages (NB).


[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3. Image.]

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