Monthly Archives: July 2011

Wednesday, 24 July 1861

Perfectly clear. G. called me at 3.45. ― Up at the Monte at 4.45. Finished drawings there, & on bridge.

Wrote to C.F.Ellen Newsom, & Mrs. G. Scrivens: ― & agreed to take the Hastings Lodgings.

Dined at 12. ―

Green environs of Turin!

Walked along the river.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Tuesday, 23 July 1861

Rose at 4.30. ― at 5.30 was with G. at the Monte ― but clouds soon came ― & destroyed all the view.

Sent letters to
F.L.
Mr. Edwards
Mr. Fairbairn
W. Langton
Dickenson
T. Cooper.

Bought Photographs & boox.

Vastly hot day.

Dined at 12.

Letters from: C. Fortescue
T. Cooper.
Dickenson
Mrs. Bergmann.
Mrs. Evans.
James B. Edwards.
C. Church’s wedding card.

5.30 clouds & a strom, & rain.

6 ― went out with G. ― posted letters, & then beyond the Po, to a walk of plane trees. We came back at 8.

Supper. One, Mr. Blackstone, an agreable fellow, & member of the Alpine Club: ― advices about Courmayeur &c. [which was all Bosh. Sept., 12.1861] ((Added as a note at the end of the entry.))

Bed at 9.30.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Monday, 22 July 1861

[Lear wrote no entry for this day.]

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Sunday, 21 July 1861

Rose at 6. Coffee 7. G. awful sulky. Saw Etienne Negrin, a guide, who asks 5fr. a day, & 4 for an ass. Walk alone about village, & find Cemetery at 8. Ill kept, weedy, sad. Tomb-tablets ― alder & willow trees greatest number of graves ― turf mounds, nettles & wild flowers [over there]: name of Combe ― 1799-1833 &c. Peyran, Malan. Some inscriptions very good ― simple ― affecting: one, by his 3 daughters, to Ct. Waldberg Truchsess. ((For a contemporary view of the Waldense religion see “The Vaudois and Religion in Italy.” The North British Review. Vol. 22, no. 94, February 1855, 376-400. On Count Waldburg-Truchsess in particular p. 392.)) ――

Horrid old cretin woman. 8. funeral. Slight coffin ― face open ― & flowers on the body. Pastor read service well in French, but it is not so impressive as ours. “Dust to dust” &c. is left out. Genl. Beckwith ((See Meille, Jean Pierre. General Beckwith: His Life and Labours among the Waldenses of Piedmont. London: T. Nelson and Sons, 1873. 1789-1862.)) there. & I saw G. also ― who had said yesterday ― “mi piace andar, e me vado sempre ai funerali dei poveri chi vanno senz’amici; Dico mi, ― chi sa, se sentono ˇ[gli morti]? e se sentono, non mi piacerebbe a mi d’aver nessuno a seguitarmi dopo morte, ― cosi vado mi.” ―― ((I like going, and I always go to the funerals of poor people who have no friends; ― I say to myself ― who knows if the dead can feel? And if they can, I would not like to have nobody to follow me after I am dead, ― so I go.))

5th August. 1862
saw in the Times of to day
that General Beckwith is dead.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Saturday, 20 July 1861

Rose at 4. Monte by 5. Clouds. back to Hotel at 8, packed. Posted letters to F.L. & Mrs. G. Clive. Breakfast at 10. 11. Railway. Off by 12. At Pinerolo ― 1.15. apparently beautiful scenery, but all cloudy. Agreable gentn. in carriage. G. goes for car, I wait in market place. 1.40 off in a car, one hour, rickety. Day cloudy, road pleasant, oxen carts & people ― hills thickly wooded: summits hidden. Bichiarasco. ((Perhaps Bricherasio, near Turin.)) long straight road to Torre. ((Torre Pellice, presumably; an important Waldensian centre.)) Inn of Lion d’Or ― wh. driver & waiter persist in saying is the Bear.

At the Orso  ((Bear.)) at last, clean country inn & nice people. Walked out, to draw, but it rained. The fresh green is lovely. Dinner at 6.30.

Borrow history of Valdesi from Minister.

English Lady died today, is to be buried tomorrow ― & they seem to think I ought to go.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Friday, 19 July 1861

Rose at 4.30. Cloudy.

G. & I were at the Cappuccini by 9.15 ― & I drew till 8.

Bought maps, & hunted for books ― & Hotel by 9.

Penned out hard all day ― barring dining at 12. At 4 ― to Monte again. Letters from F.L. J.H.B. & Mrs. G. Scrivens.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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Thursday, 18 July 1861

Fine, but cloudy till 10 or 11 ― & the mountains never clear, Monte Viso indeed was only visible at sunrise, & then a gleaming from high above cloud ― looking more like a set of stars than anything mundane. Rose at 4 ― the careful Giorgio calling me: ― we got some coffee at a cafè, & were up at the Cappuccini by 5.5. But the mountains, alas! were undrawable. Yet I got a good del of insane work done ― & did not get back till 8.45. Then I penned out hard till 12 ― & then dined: not feeling well tho’, & having taken the Levers medicine again, as the stoppage threatens to return. After dinner, Graham called & shewed me photographs: & I penned & slept by turns till 4.30, when G. & I again went along the long street to the Cappuccini, & I drew till 7.30. We went into the Cap: garden, the Portinaro shewing me his bedroom, full=hung with small quadri ((Paintings.)) ― “tutti regali!” ((All of them presents!)) ― he, a Swiss from Lugano.

The Garden ruins are very lovely ― & I hardly know any convent more finely placed for a city Panoramic lookout. At the Hotel by 8.30. Supped on cold fowl & beer: ― & to bed at 9.15. ― The 3 stories here, & the twice=a-day to the Cappuccini are fatiguing, but I am better than I was, & am thankful for being so.

X

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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