Thursday, 25 July 1861

Rose at 5. packed. 7. Cathedral. Post at 8. letter from F. Coombe ˇ[& Observer].

Off to Milan Railway. But Ivrea trains didn’t go till 1.30 instead of 8.40. ― disgust. Came to shady trees, & sat till 11, reading Observer. Troops exercising. Views of Turin from the tree-bordered walks are very pleasant. Pale-purple Alpi ― across the G. Turco ((“Granturco,” i.e. Indian corn, maize.)) fields ― poplars & trees beyond ― all seen between trunx of trees ― delightful enough.

11.7. Railway café ― very good dinner: pilaf of rice, mango & pomidoro, bread & grissini, Gorgonzola, Asti wine & ice & coffee. All for 5fr. For 2. ―― 12.30 got places. ―

Dinner for 2  ―           2.80
Asti wine ―                 2.00
Coffee ―                            20
Fr.                                   5.00

Off at 1.30. 2 sets of English ― (one, to G.’s dismay sits on my box.) wait at Chivasso, 2.15 on to Ivrea. Horrid fat goiter, flourishing stick;  ἡ διάδησες του, ((Its passage (NB).)) says G. Near Caluso very lovely ― wooded mountains & a long Moab-like line going into the plain, & a little Lake. At Ivrea by 3.30. surprisingly splendid & beautiful ― all towers & churches ― a river, & no end of mountains. Hustle & bustle at station, & disgusting row. First bus full, so we had to come by a 2nd. Hotel Europa, where I got a decent little room. 4.15 G. & I went to a Vigna wh. I had “spotted” as I came in, ― & drew till 6.30 in a vy hot sun. ― Rox I sate on ― picturesque ― small abundant cacti, rosy pinx, & a queer larva animal in a house of moss. Much pleased with the beauty of this view, & the long Moabite woody hill. 6.30 to the town, & military school, & a green ground of exercising troops. Beer-shop ― a beer for 6 soldi. Facile Landlady with the young ossifers. Returned 7.30. very hot day. ―

Supper. ― Sent G. to see after carriage ― & we finally got one for fr. 35 ― to stop where I please, & go to S. Vincenzo or Chatillon.

The Inn people asked 40: & wouldn’t stop anywhere. ―

Bed at 10.

[Transcribed by Marco Graziosi from Houghton Library, Harvard University, MS Eng. 797.3.]

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